Questions on driven sandpoint

[MiGuy]

I have a cabin in the U.P. of Michigan. Previously drove a 2" sandpoint to 16 feet and had lots of water but the State says it has to be 25' min. We drove to 25' and had no water. Drove to 35' and had some water but not enough to sustain flow. Pipe would not drive any deeper. Actually bent pipe trying. Looking at some nearby logs, I think its a layer of shale. So we pulled what case we could and filled with bentonite.
Drove at second location down to 16' and have lots of water again, although heavy iron content (turns brown after some time). Pretty sure this is just pulling water from the river 150' away through the sand.
My questions:

1.) Should I try to drive deeper again? Seems like all sand and gravel down to the shale. I'm not sure how we drove out of the water.

2.) Assuming I get good water at the proper depth, what is the best way to finish this installation? State won't allow well pits and I can't find a pitless adapter for 2 inch casing.

I appreciate any advice and help.

 

[Valveman]

You drive until your screen is in the water bearing formation, wherever that is, no matter what the State says. If the water is at 16', and you drive the screen down to 25', how is any water going to get in at 16' through the solid pipe? It can't. I guess you could drive to 25' if you have 10' or more of screen, so some of it is still at 16'.

Most people leave the top of the well point below the frost level, attach an elbow to the underground pipe, and just bury the well head. Pain in the butt to find the well head next time, which is why I know so many do it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Most people leave the top of the well point below the frost level, attach an elbow to the underground pipe, and just bury the well head. Pain in the butt to find the well head next time, which is why I know so many do it.

He could use a tee instead of an elbow. The top could be a cap or a ball valve. The valve or cap could be used to add chlorine pellets for sanitizing or water priming.