Question on Aquia II install and unusual closet flange

Users who are viewing this thread

theloaf

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
First, thanks for you help.

Our 1959 house: I'm doing a 2nd floor bathroom remodel. Not a lot of experience with plumbing, but I'm pretty handy. Anyway, I took out the old toilet, floor down to subfloor, etc. I had never pulled a toilet out before, and I wasn't even paying attention to the closet flange at the time, just figured I would deal with it when I got to it b/c we never had any issues with the old toilet, it never leaked, so I thought install would be straightforward. But now I'm thinking we have an unusual flange set-up.

I've put in a new penny round tile floor and measured carefully. The flange is just below the flared lip of the main waste pipe. It was never screwed down or attached to the floor, just held on by the flared pipe and rotates freely. I measured carefully with my tile, and the flange, if pulled up as far as it can go, comes to a level as if it were just sitting on top of the tile. I am at the point where I am hoping to install a new Toto Aquia II. All the installation instructions for this toilet--and most every toilet--seem to indicate that toilet flanges are supposed to be screwed or fixed down and not moveable. I'm guessing that in this set-up the underside of the flared lip actually holds the flange (and thus bolts) down and that's what held the old toilet down (of course there was a wax ring too). Is this an unusual set up?

Can I just install our new toilet using the same set-up? I can't easily screw the flange down b/c there's no super solid wood right around the hole the pipe comes through, AND it's already held back by the flared lip. If I were to screw it down that would seem weird b/c there would inevitably be a gap between the bottom of the lip and the top of the flange. But I'm worried that maybe the last toilet install wasn't done properly in the first place and I'll be setting myself up for problems if I just do the same thing.

I also know the Aquia uses an unusual install, and I've read up on it. I'm ready to drill out the holes for the mounting blocks, etc. It's just the flange area I'm worried about because no instructions/advice address our odd flange situation. We already have the toilet, so I am hoping to make it work. Do you see any issues, or can I proceed?

I'm attaching a couple photos of the flange and toilet area (at least I'm hoping the attachments work... never done this before). Again, my thanks. I'm learning a lot by reading this forum.

DSC_4149_small.jpg
DSC_4152_small.jpg
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
28,843
Reaction score
2,875
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I would use a flat repair ring on that that allows you to screw to the floor.
What you have is a lead bend. I would not be moving that around much.
The Aquia also uses two blocks screwed into the floor that holds the bowl down.

aquia_install_fig_5.jpg


redring.jpg


This ring has holes farther out.

cst416-green-1.jpg


The last one I installed in Seattle.
 

theloaf

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Seattle, Washington
OK, thank you so much. The repair ring I found has an ID of 5" but the lead bend is appx 5 1/2"and sticks up a bit from the floor. Is there a spacer or something I can use to raise it above the lip of the lead pipe? Or should I try bending the lead lip up to accommodate the repair ring? You say it shouldn't be moved much so that concerns me. If the repair ring is larger, will it fit inside the plastic housing of the Aquia II that goes down on the floor under the toilet?

I take it, the wax ring is all I need to create a good seal? I don't have to connect the flange to the pipe? Should I use a big wax ring?

Lastly, I didn't realize you folks were in the Seattle area. Me too. Is there a good place you would recommend for parts?

P.S. your toilet looks great.
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
28,843
Reaction score
2,875
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Pull the adapter out of the box from the Aquia and see how much room you have there. You do have to fit a wax ring there.
The bowl is stuck to the floor with the back blocks, and some caulking.
With lead, you can bend it in, and then back out and over the flange you use. The ring there is mainly to hold the closet bolts. With a normal toilet install, they also hold the bowl down.
Any of the local hardware stores have the small bits of plumbing you need. I do wind up selling a lot of the Aquia toilets in the Seattle area.
http://terrylove.biz/toilets/14-toto-aquia-dual-flush-toilet-cst416m.html
 

Sting

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Virginia
Hi! I am in the process of installing an Aquia 4 over a penny tile floor. Did you have any issues with the unifit or mounting block? Any suggestions to ensure that mounting blocks are level and stable? Thanks!
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
28,843
Reaction score
2,875
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Hi! I am in the process of installing an Aquia 4 over a penny tile floor. Did you have any issues with the unifit or mounting block? Any suggestions to ensure that mounting blocks are level and stable? Thanks!

The bowl is screwed into the blocks from the side. As long as the blocks are secure it's fine.
The adapter secures with closet bolts and two screws at the back. A tile bit or in some cases a rotohammer for the holes.
 

jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,654
Reaction score
1,143
Points
113
Location
New England
As long as the adapter is tight, the wax seal will remain intact if things are installed properly, but, you still don't want the toilet to rock. So, you may need some shims. The difference with this toilet and that where the toilet seals directly to the wax ring, is you can add the shims after you've set the toilet down. The caulk around the front and sides will also help stabilize the toilet on the tiled floor, and prevent crud from getting underneath where it is next to impossible to keep it clean and sanitary.
 

Sting

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Virginia
The bowl is screwed into the blocks from the side. As long as the blocks are secure it's fine.
The adapter secures with closet bolts and two screws at the back. A tile bit or in some cases a rotohammer for the holes.

As long as the adapter is tight, the wax seal will remain intact if things are installed properly, but, you still don't want the toilet to rock. So, you may need some shims. The difference with this toilet and that where the toilet seals directly to the wax ring, is you can add the shims after you've set the toilet down. The caulk around the front and sides will also help stabilize the toilet on the tiled floor, and prevent crud from getting underneath where it is next to impossible to keep it clean and sanitary.

Thank you! Since I am drilling into porcelain tile, I fear that I might end up with a significant chip and that would prevent my mounting block to be true. Also, porcelain tile is extremely slick and I am hoping that the smooth mounting blocks stay put. I was thinking of putting a 1/8" rubber grip sheet between the block and the floor to provide some stability.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
34,530
Reaction score
3,495
Points
113
Location
IL
Those blocks are what hold the toilet down. The caulking around the bottom does help resist sideways sliding, but you might want more holding the toilet down than just gravity.

I doubt that a chip would cause a real problem. If it did make a big hole, you could fill the hole with mortar. Unlikely to happen. Just so the toilet hides the hole.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks