question about 1/2" closet flange extension

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cjs1996

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Hi folks, I'm replacing one of the toilets in my home, need some advice.

The existing flange sits just shy of 1/2" below the tile surface. The previous wax ring was standard size (not extra thick), and there is evidence of leakage.

I've picked up a Plumbest 1/2 closet flange extension kit (C88-050) from my local plumbing supply house, and when I sit the extension plate (white plastic, 1/2 inch), the top of the extension plate sits just above the tile, maybe 1/8" above the tile.

Questions:

How do I attach the extension to the closet flange? The back of the package says "simply bolt the extension to the closet flange" but there were no bolts in the package (besides new closet bolts), and in any case I don't see any holes in the old flange that I can simply screw into. There are some pre-drilled holes in the extension which I assume are intended for this purpose.

I don't want to drill into the existing flange because some sections appear corroded (rusted?) from minor previous leakage.

The guys at the supply house said I could just clean the existing flange, lay a fat bead of silicon down, and press the new extender plate on top.

Is this sound advice?

Alternatively, I picked up a Harvey's NO-SEEP NO.10 (extra thick) wax ring. Considering the existing flange height at about 1/2" below the tile, can I just get away with this thick wax ring, avoiding hassle with the extension altogether.

Or is the extension the best route?

Thanks,
Chris
 
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cjs1996

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clarification

I can see that there are some holes in the existing flange (presumably what's holding the flange to the floor), but the tops of the bolts have been cut off, so I guess I would need to get an extractor to remove those existing bolts and insert new ones to hold down the extender and existing flange.

I'm hoping to not have to do that.

Can I just use silicone to attach the extender?

Or can I just use the extra thick wax ring?

Which is preferred?

Thanks
Chris
 

Jadnashua

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A properly installed extender is preferred (by me at least). The best solution would be to redo things and put a new flange on top of the finished floor. You can drill through the old flange to attach things to the subflooring and sandwich things together. Is the existing flange well anchored to the subflooring? Keep in mind, this is what holds the toilet to the waste line.
 

cjs1996

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Jim, yes the existin flange appears to be well anchored to the flooring, there's just one spot that looks like it has a bit of corrosion and I'm afraid that part will disintegrate (it probably wouldn't, but don't want to create more headaches) if I drill into it.
 

TedL

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If it's so bad that it will fall apart from drilling a hole through it, it's not doing much for you anyway.

But the "cut off bolts" would be an unusual (and more difficult to do) alternative to the standard flat head wood screws that would usually be holding the existing flange in place. The screw removers like this one from Sears

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccfiaddjkllekklcefecemldffidfmm.0

work well. I'd give it a shot.
 

cjs1996

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Ted

Thanks for the tips.

Yes, everything I can find online shows that flanges would normally be installed with flat head screws, I have no idea why the previous installer didn't do this, but unfortunately I'll have to deal with it.

In any case, I had to go ahead and install the toilet last night with an extra thick wax ring because I'm going out of town soon and the wife didn't want a hole in the floor with a rag in it. :) I did feel the wax compress (but not that much) when I lowered the toilet onto the flange, and it's not leaking, yet.

However, I really do think the flange extender is the right way to go, and when I get back I'll pull it and see if I can remove those cut-off flange bolts/screws with an extractor, lay a bead of silicon down, and then screw the new extender onto the existing flange in the existing holes. This will put the top of the extender just above the tile surface so I think I'll get a much better wax seal and reduce the chance of future leaks.

Just one last question:

What kind of hardware (material) should I use for the flange mounting screws? Stainless steel wood screws? Is there a "standard" size screw that should be used for this?

Thanks again for all the help.
Chris
 

Jadnashua

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SS or brass (brass would probably require a pilot hole or you'll strip the head) so they don't corrode. Probably #10 or #12, long enough to penetrate the subfloor a little for maximum holding power.
 
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