Push in toilet flange
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Reliable. My assessment is not based on experience. I would grease the gasket with silicone grease, because I like greasing gaskets with silicone grease. But even if I did not, I don't see a leak happening when putting the Push-Tite into PVC or ABS. IMO, these are especially good for less practiced people, because you don't have to get it right the first time, as you do with glue.
I don't know what you are describing, but it is not going to happen, whatever it is.
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The flange will be anchored to the subfloor with the screws but the sphigot has no real support other than the glued joint at the down spout 3 feet away. The elbow can be moved about an inch up and down. With each flush won't there be downward pressure from the water pushing the elbow out of the flange? I used plumbers tape to attach elbow to blocking but it still has some vertical movement. If there is movement with each flush over time won't that degrade the seal the gasket is providing? I just want to make sure it's done right cause once it's closed off and tiled the only way to access it is through my kitchen ceiling.
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I have not seen a closet flange like you pictured. I was thinking Push-Tite 887-GPM or Genova Products 75158S. Yours looks to me like a regular glue-on flange glued outside 3 inch PVC with an adapter to fit inside the 4 inch, but I guess it has the same function.
Note the flange goes atop the finished floor preferably.
I see what you mean now. You could add a block/wedge between the joist and the PVC to limit travel.
Note the flange goes atop the finished floor preferably.
It actually is a souix chief 887-GPM that I cut in half and have a 3" pipe in it to extend it. After floor is finished I will get measurement to know how long to extend it. Joists are 8" and after rise/run a normal hubbed elbow with straight pipe extender and regular flange was going to leave me an inch too high. So after reading posts I came up with this. Do you mean shim between drywall ceiling and bottom of elbow?
Cool. I would not be surprised to your photo being referred to for a future solution. I had read https://www.pexuniverse.com/uploads/docs/pdf/sc-fl-ext-pushtite.pdf but I had a wrong picture in my head.
You would seem to be expecting a pretty thick floor, since your closet bend comes up pretty high already.
Marked picture shows where I was thinking. It would limit upward movement, and the strap eliminates downward movement.
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The floor will be 1" mud with a 7/16" plank like tile so lets call it an inch and a half. If you look closely at the flange pic I have a line drawn where I estimate the top of the gasketed side will land. I plan to cut off the distal end of the 3" extender off. I just havent cut it down to size yet, waiting for actual floor depth. I will wedge the top side of elbow which will box it in and limit vertical movement. FYI original floor was over 2" thick with the standard elbow and flange setup.
Thanks Reach you rock!!!!!
Thanks Reach you rock!!!!!
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
I'm not a fan of push-in fittings, especially on a 3" pipe. More okay with a 4" pipe. It should still work, but consider there are some toilets with a 3" outlet which would create a ridge, or at least a steep taper. A push-in flange that will fit into a 3" pipe will have an opening closer to 2", and most toilets have an outlet slightly larger than that. It creates a situation where you have a larger possibility of clogging or slowing down the flow through an obstruction. If you want or need a little wiggle room, you've lost it, since the toilet's outlet must perfectly align with the center of the flange. Much prefer a glue-on one.
Why would you say that?
If it were true, that would still not apply to this thread. But I doubt it's true.
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Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
There are inside fit flanges that will fit into a 3" pipe (however attached, whether glued in or pushed in). Not recommended on a 3" pipe IMHO, even if it fits. If your pipe is a 4", yes, you could use one, but it would reduce the ID to close to 3" because of the wall thickness of the flange plus the depth of the gasketing material. 3" ID is fine, 2" isn't IMHO. For any toilet sold in the US, a 3" pipe works fine, but reducing it further with an inside fit, even if allowed, isn't the greatest thing.
Ok my initial line was 2 3/4 I will stick with it. Will let you know how it turns out Reach. Planning on installing a Toto drake.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
As long as you get at least the minimum insertion distance they call for, any more won't help or hurt. What you don't want is to expect to be able to push it in more than you actually can, and then have the thing not sit flat on the finished floor - IOW, sticking up too high. Make sure that the pipe is well supported, so it can't move. A solvent welded joint holds them together, a push-in, rubber gasket is just a friction fit.
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