Pump Not Turning On In Time

[usmaps]

I have a pump that was installed in the basement for the washing machine discharge. The pump make and model can be found at the following link: (ProFlo PF92017 - 3/10 HP Compact Remote Sink/Drain Pump System 1-1/2-Inch).

It is attached to my washing machine and does not turn on in time. It overflows at the area where the washing machine drain is hooked up. After the water overflows for a while, it will kick on and works fine. I'm assuming it is a float issue, but have no clue. Had a technician come look at it through our home warranty, and it was no surprise he said the whole system was broke and needed replaced, even though it's brand new and he didn't actually test it. Obviously the home warranty denied our claim, so here I am trying to figure it out before hiring someone.

I've emailed the ProFlo customer service for support as it should be under warranty through them, but I also didn't purchase the item since it came with the house, so I'm uncertain if they'll help without proof of purchase. I've read some reviews where people have said it came assembled incorrectly and they were able to fix it themselves. I'm a new/first time home owner, so my experience is pretty low, hoping for some advice!

 

[Reach4]

Contacting ProFlo was good, even if you have to pay.

Looks like you need part 9. http://image.proflo.com/prodimages//Proflo/insts/PF92017 Manual 0319.pdf or maybe the area just needs cleaning.

It looks like the float switch uses a piggy back plug, so replacing the float switch would not need wiring. Maybe soak the old one in vinegar for a while to clear hardness deposits, and have a spare.

https://activerain.com/blogsview/686405/how-to-beat-home-warranty-companies-at-their-own-game

 

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[usmaps]

I added some pictures. I might try to disassemble and check the float switch, but I'll wait to see what ProFlo has to say.

 

[Fitter30]

Pull the vent line fill pump up through the vent see where the turn on point is. That vent line maybe to short extend it another 5'.

 

[Reach4]

A sealed pit should not use an AAV; it needs a real through-the-roof vent. For testing, remove (unscrew) the AAV, and see if that makes things behave. In fact, the easy solution, but not officially to code, is to leave the AAV off. As long as the check valve holds, I don't expect sewer smells.

Your standpipe is supposed to have a p-trap before the basin.

I think the system was not installed properly. Looking at http://image.proflo.com/prodimages//Proflo/insts/PF92017 Manual 0319.pdf figure 6 on page 6, it looks like an AAV can be used as an "engineered system" and is supposed to have an approval. Your AAV doesn't look like that at all.

Also note that in Figure 4, they feed the washer into a laundry sink, and have a p-trap out of the laundry sink. They don't seem to say that system can support a laundry standpipe directly.



Does this connect to your sewage system, or elsewhere?

 

[Reach4]

With IPC, the best way for handling your laundry drain is to put a 2-inch standpipe up high enough that you do not need a pump. The washing machine typically is rated to pump 96 inches above the floor. There are drain line extensions.

No sewage pump means no sewage pump failure. No need for a TTR (thru the roof) vent. The new standpipe can use an AAV.