Pump just died. Help!!!

[Chad D.]

Ok, I’m just guessing that the pump died. Hoping to get some troubleshooting help on this.

The skinny on my system and what happened today:

Well is ~60’ deep. Makes ~6 gpm
1/2hp pump is set at ~53’. I believe it’s an 8 gpm pump at that depth, but can’t quite remember. We don’t run out of water.

Was washing my RV this afternoon, and water petered out. Went into pump house to look, and pressure gauge was at Zero. Lifted up the lever on pressure switch, thinking we had used more than the well could give, and nuthin’. Hmmm.

Checked breaker, which was tripped. Reset breaker and went to lift lever on switch to get it started. POW!!! Flash under switch lid, and breaker tripped again. Dammer.

Pull cover off switch. Reset breaker. Meter 118V on both legs coming in. Shut off breaker.

Pull lid (with capacitor) off of control box. Measured resistance between legs to pump, and this is where I’m getting scared…

I’m 99% sure it’s a 1/2 HP pump, and 100% sure it’s 230V. Sticker under controller lid states it’s for a 1/2 HP pump.

Sticker under control box cover says that the “Main” black/yellow should show 4.2-5.2 ohms resistance.

I metered 6.7.



The “Start” red/yellow should show 16.7-20.5 ohms resistance.

I metered 13.6.



So, it’s out of the range it should be. Now what??? Is there more troubleshooting I need to do, or is the pump fried? It’s only been in a couple years, and we’re pretty frustrated/discouraged about it. I’ve got the RV filled with fresh water, so we can get a shower, but I need to get this issue solved. Thank you for any input or advice!

 

[WorthFlorida]

If the breaker tripping is a single slot (lever) it 120v, a double it's 230v. I believe you have a three wire pump, therefore, the control box has probably two capacitors? Do you know how to check them? More likely the pump is bad.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Chad D.]

If the breaker tripping is a single slot (lever) it 120v, a double it's 230v. I believe you have a three wire pump, therefore, the control box has probably two capacitors? Do you know how to check them? More likely the pump is bad.

100% sure it is a 220/230/240V circuit and pump. Double-pole breaker, fer sure.

Correct on the 3-wire pump, but only one capacitor on the inside of the control box lid. Other than seeing that the little burst disc is still flat and white, I have not performed any diagnostics on the capacitor. Assuming that the pump just wouldn’t start if it were a capacitor? Would that cause the breaker to pop immediately?

To be honest, I was more expecting one of the wires to the pump to be shorted completely and show 0.00 ohms. My fear is that the pump is TU and lived a very short and meaningless life.

 

[Chad D.]

I’ll check continuity between ground and each of the three wires to the pump. I haven’t done that yet…. Guessing one will be bad news.

Might also note that when I energized the circuit with the pressure switch uncovered, the big flash/sparky episode appeared to only be from one side of the switch.

 

[Chad D.]

All fixed up. Had a chafe in the yellow wire, about 50’ down. Replaced all wire with new double shielded, and we’re back in business.

 

[Kevink1955]

Good to see but still a lot of work

 

[Valveman]

A chafed wire is just one of many problems caused by the pump cycling on and off while you are using water. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve is an easy way to make sure that and many other problems do not happen.

 

[Chad D.]

Good to see but still a lot of work

Yes, agreed. Not deep though, so a fairly simple fix. Took a couple hours.

 

[Chad D.]

A chafed wire is just one of many problems caused by the pump cycling on and off while you are using water. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve is an easy way to make sure that and many other problems do not happen.

Oddly, the chafe was more of a break in the insulation than a rub-type chafe. The wires were taped to the poly about every 3-4 feet, and I have the plastic frisbee looking disks snapped onto the poly every 5-6 feet. The wires didn’t rub against to well casing unless it happened during installation, from what I can gather.

 

[Valveman]

If the wire is taped up so it can't move it is more likely to break than to chafe. Wire breaks like that from bending back and forth over and over from the pump cycling.

 

[Reach4]

Also you may need some slack in the wire between the tape attachments.