Pump controler cuts out after less than 2 seconds.

captmikem

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A new system to me. 220 ft deep well, 1800 gal cistern. Franklin Pump Protector, ½ hp.

Well certificate does not say what pump is in the well. It does say it was 6.5 gpm with an air test.

system is about 15 years old. Has a timer that runs the well pump for five minutes every 15 minutes.

I cycle the timer to turn it on, a very few times it has come on and pumped water, but nearly every time I turn it on the pump controller turns it off in less than 2 seconds, I put a meter on L1 and L2 and see no amps.

If I open the valve from the well pump, and quickly cycle the controller each time it cuts off I get water from the pump.

I changed the time to 5 minutes every half hour. Checking back after 3 days it had put about 500 gal in the cistern, after 10 days 1,600.

I would like to replace the pump controller. My question: can I use a 1 hp pump controller? The one on it is ½ hp.
 

Reach4

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I presume there is also a float switch. If you put the voltmeter across L1 and L2, what do you read?

The 1HP pump controller would have the wrong start capacitor. Also, 1/2 HP pumps come in 115 v and 230 volt versions. Is the breaker single pole, or 2-pole?

What model number is the controller?
 

captmikem

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I presume there is also a float switch. If you put the voltmeter across L1 and L2, what do you read?

The 1HP pump controller would have the wrong start capacitor. Also, 1/2 HP pumps come in 115 v and 230 volt versions. Is the breaker single pole, or 2-pole?

What model number is the controller?
Yes, there is a float switch on the cistern. It is a 230 volt system. The controller is a Pumptec by Franklin Electric 230V 1/2 hp model 2801054915
Breaker is a two pole.
 

Reach4

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I was thinking you might replace the cap in a 1 HP box that you had laying around...

Anyway, how about measuring the wire terminal to wire terminal resistance of the wires running to the pump.

R (Red) - Y (yellow)
R - B
Y - B
Y - ground.

Expect L1 - L2 to be about 240 V. Don't touch those with the meter in ohms setting.


2801054915-1.jpg
 

captmikem

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I was thinking you might replace the cap in a 1 HP box that you had laying around...

Anyway, how about measuring the wire terminal to wire terminal resistance of the wires running to the pump.

R (Red) - Y (yellow)
R - B
Y - B
Y - ground.

Expect L1 - L2 to be about 240 V. Don't touch those with the meter in ohms setting.


2801054915-1.jpg
Here is what I have:

R -Y 18.5 ohms
R-B 22.6 Ohms
Y-B 5.5 Ohms
Y- Gnd 36.7 Meg ohms.
L1-L2 232 VAC
 

Reach4

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Calculated resistance of pump motor windings and power wires.
Rstart​
Rrun​
Rwire​
17.1​
4.1​
0.7​
About what we expect for a 3-wire 1/2 HP pump. So no red flags there.

Wire resistance to pump about 0.7 ohms each. If 12 AWG copper, that corresponds to a length on the order of 240 ft.

With resistance numbers having one decimal place, the calculations could be a little off... but they say nothing weird indicated.

So lets hope removing the Pumptec does it for you.
 
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captmikem

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Calculated resistance of pump motor windings and power wires.
Rstart​
Rrun​
Rwire​
17.1​
4.1​
0.7​
About what we expect for a 3-wire 1/2 HP pump. So no red flags there.

Wire resistance to pump about 0.7 ohms each. If 12 AWG copper, that corresponds to a length on the order of 240 ft.

With resistance numbers having one decimal place, the calculations could be a little off... but they say nothing weird indicated.

So lets hope removing the Pumptec does it for you.
Thank you!
 

captmikem

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That was it, replaced the pumptec module, all fine now. Thank you verry much for all your easy to follow instructions. The video, although simple was very good, and allowed me to see where to connect the wires when pulling the pumptec module
Thanks again.
Michael
 

Fitter30

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Might have a expansion tank with the wrong air charge or if water comes.out pof air valve tanks bad. Air charge 2 lbs less the cut off pressure.
 
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