Pump continues running

[Snm]

I have a bored well with a 1 hp pump with pressure tank. Pump will not cut off. I replaced foot valve, then pressure switch. I checked pressure in pressure tank. Checked tank for water log. Checked the little pressure tube going to pressure switch. When running, there is good pressure at the faucet in the home. Pressure gauge on tank builds to 40. I have checked for leaks inside the home.What else could I check?

 

[LLigetfa]

If the pump is at the well, you could have a leak underground. Is there any check valves besides the foot valve? If so they could be masking the leak.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Snm]

If the pump is at the well, you could have a leak underground. Is there any check valves besides the foot valve? If so they could be masking the leak.

No other check valves. I have looked for damp areas in yard, but nothing shows unusual moisture. I have left pump running a long time, hoping that a leak would show up.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you close the valve on the line coming from the tank and turn off the pump, does the pressure hold?

 

[John Gayewski]

How are you shutting thr pump down currently?

 

[Snm]

If you close the valve on the line coming from the tank and turn off the pump, does the pressure hold?

Pressure holds and pump continues running. There is a cutoff on supply line just after pump. I turned that one off to see what would happen. The pump did a continuous rapid on_off.

 

[Reach4]

Pressure holds and pump continues running. There is a cutoff on supply line just after pump. I turned that one off to see what would happen. The pump did a continuous rapid on_off.

Show us a photo that includes that valve, the pressure switch and the input to the pressure tank. The valve should not isolate the pressure tank from the pressure switch.

 

[Valveman]

Pressure holds and pump continues running. There is a cutoff on supply line just after pump. I turned that one off to see what would happen. The pump did a continuous rapid on_off.

Then you have a leak after that cut off valve AND your foot valve or check valve is also not working.

 

[Snm]

 

[Reach4]

Nice photo.

I am going to let somebody who knows 2-pipe jet pumps better comment on things. It is clear why when you close your valve the pump pulses on and off.

That tee near the green hose has a pipe going into the ground. Where does that go. And where does that pipe to the right of the pressure gauge go? A large leak on either of those could keep you from building and holding pressure. It would be good to have valves in those two paths rather than where you have a valve now.

If some day you want to change the pump, consider switching to a 1/2 HP submersible pump. If you get interested in the considerations for that, let us know.

 

[Valveman]

Closing either of those valves in the photo will cause a rapid on off as they are before the pressure tank. Closing the valve on the discharge of the pump somewhat may help with the pressure. A deep well pump needs a back pressure valve to force water to the down pipe, which makes more water come up the draw pipe. Hopefully there is a foot valve at the bottom of those two pipes? Post a model of the pump.

 

[Snm]

Nice photo.

I am going to let somebody who knows 2-pipe jet pumps better comment on things. It is clear why when you close your valve the pump pulses on and off.

That tee near the green hose has a pipe going into the ground. Where does that go. And where does that pipe to the right of the pressure gauge go? A large leak on either of those could keep you from building and holding pressure. It would be good to have valves in those two paths rather than where you have a valve now.

If some day you want to change the pump, consider switching to a 1/2 HP submersible pump. If you get interested in the considerations for that, let us know.

The pipe next to the green rope going into the ground is the supply line going to the house. The pipe to the right of the pressure gauge is capped off.

 

[Snm]

Closing either of those valves in the photo will cause a rapid on off as they are before the pressure tank. Closing the valve on the discharge of the pump somewhat may help with the pressure. A deep well pump needs a back pressure valve to force water to the down pipe, which makes more water come up the draw pipe. Hopefully there is a foot valve at the bottom of those two pipes? Post a model of the pump.

There is a new foot valve at bottom. I will get pump model later today when I go by there. This at a house we are doing some work on for rental.

 

[Reach4]

So you will want to either put a new pressure switch at the tank, or to run that pressure sensing line from the pressure switch to the tank. Plug where the left end of the current pressure sensing line goes to the pump.

I did not notice the upper valve before.

 

[Bannerman]

Suggestions:

1) relocate the ball valve that is currently to the left of the pressure tank, to the poly line that is feeding the house, directly below the Tee. This will allow the house feed to be shut off without blocking the water pathway between the pump and pressure tank.

2) Tee in a boiler drain valve where the ball valve is currently located to the left of the pressure tank. This will allow you to periodically shut off the pump and drain the pressure tank so as to measure the pressure tank air pre-charge pressure. A boiler drain valve will be equipped with a garden hose thread to allow you to discharge the tank water to a floor drain or an alternate drain location.

3) Directly beside the new boiler drain Tee, install a second Tee to obtain a connection for the pressure switch. The exsisting or new pressure switch could be mounted on the new Tee, or as Reach4 mentioned, the exsisting pressure switch may remain where it is currently located if the tubing that supplies pressure to the switch is extended to obtain pressure from the new Tee.

 

[Snm]

Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions. I will definitely consider some of the changes suggested. What puzzles me is this has been running this same set up for years. I changed the pump and tank about 3 years ago. I changed the pressure valve about 9 years ago . Has been working fine till I went to the house (no resident living there) one day a fewer months ago and discovered pump running with out cutting off. First thought, inspected pressure cut off. 2nd , I replaced the foot valve. Could there be a small enough leak in pipeline, under the water line, to still have good pressure at house when running, but will not allow enough to cut off? By the way, ended up replacing the pressure valve.

 

[Reach4]

If there is no leak, if you stop using all water while the gauge reads 40 psi, expect that 40 or close to it to hold. What is your normal cutoff at -- 50 psi, or what?

 

[Snm]

If there is no leak, if you stop using all water while the gauge reads 40 psi, expect that 40 or close to it to hold. What is your normal cutoff at -- 50 psi, or what?

I think it is factory set at 50.

 

[Snm]

I think it is factory set at 50.

I went to the house today and turned the pump on. It built up pressure to 39. Just continues running. I turned the power off. Checked after 1 hour. Still holding 39. Checked again after 6 hours, still holding at 39. I tapped on the pressure tank again. Still does not sound water logged. Any more suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Valveman]

Your pump probably got hot when it didn't shut off as it should. Now the impeller is worn and it can only build 39 PSI.