Pump constantly turning on and off 24/7

[Wutang]

Hey guys, newbie trying to figure it all out. My father's become ill and im trying to pick up the slack on the ranch. We keep going through pumps every six months or so. Hoping to get some help on how to better the system. Submersible pump that pumps from the river up a 60ft cliff and to pump house. The system is the only source of water for the ranch so it pumps up to the water trough 100 yards away to all the spigots outside to the house. Once water leaves the pumphouse it hits all the outside locations first, then to the filters for house, then finally arriving at the house.

Now with all that said. The pump house has a 119 gallon tank teed onto system. But the pressure switch/gauge/check valve are all about 3 -4ft before it. I feel like the check valve is broke because if I kill the pump. The water will just drain the whole system all back into the river unless i close the line.

Anyway the 1.5 hp pump goes up to 60-65 Shuts off, instantly begins to drop down to 40 in a matter of 20 seconds, turns back on taking about 30 seconds to go back up to 60-65. Repeating this pattern until it wears out s few months later. Anyway i can better this system? Thanks and sorry if I'm too vague let me know if you need more info ill give it. And thank you if you took the time to read this. It means alot.

 

[Sylvan]

The Check valve is allowing by pass .. Replace it

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

If you can remove the check valve by not cutting any pipe, there could be a pebble or other debris jammed in the check valve. Pumping from surface water can easily pick up debris though there is a screen on the pump.

 

[LLigetfa]

First off, you should install a good quality spring loaded check valve directly on the pump, not at the top of the cliff. The check valve inside the pump is unlikely to hold if there is no pressure against it. Many pumps have a poppet style check valve with no spring so they rely on gravity and backpressure.

As for the cycling, install a Cycle Stop Valve.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/

 

[Reach4]

Anyway the 1.5 hp pump goes up to 60-65 Shuts off, instantly begins to drop down to 40 in a matter of 20 seconds, turns back on taking about 30 seconds to go back up to 60-65.

It takes 30 seconds to fill the pressure tank. If the pressure tank is working normally, that would imply you were pumping 50 to 60 gpm. How long did the pump run at minimum originally?

An alternative to the check valve in/at the pump leaking, there could be a hole in the pipe somewhere. Close the valve after the pressure tank to see if the leak could be after that valve.

You may have two problems, with the second one that the tank has gone bad. If you turn the power off, and the pressure goes to zero, the pressure tank should weigh maybe 100 lb or less. If there is water inside, it would be hard to rock the tank. You can also detect water in the tank by rapping on the tank, but it would be useful to have rapped on the new empty tank to be able to distinguish the difference in sound.


Your pump in the river should have a flow inducer sleeve to force incoming water across the motor to keep the water cool.

 

[Wutang]

Thank you all. So the pump house check valve. Cant really be taken apart to examine without cutting. However I do have a new spring loaded one as well as a new tank. I wouldn't of thought about the test tap idea until you mentioned it so thanks. Should I replace the old check valve in the pump house or, install it down right after the pump and just leave the old one be?

And as for how long the pump ran prior im not sure because anytime I was working on it prior it would be just replacing the pump down at the river and the old man would handle the turning off and on and making sure pressure was building. He never liked us getting involved with the process of the water much until there wasn't a choice and i now see why hah. He acts as if it's the norm though when i explained it all to him.

And a cycle stop valve I have seen pop up alot when ive been looking into this problem online but it's a part I personally have no knowledge of yet. Will it mess up the amount of pressure/consistency at all? Sorry if dumb question just trying to make sure i dont end up juat making means worse.

 

[Reach4]

Should I replace the old check valve in the pump house or, install it down right after the pump and just leave the old one be?

Just after the submersible pump would be best.

What is your pump? 1.5 hp, but what gpm rating or brand and model?

 

[LLigetfa]

Should I replace the old check valve in the pump house or, install it down right after the pump and just leave the old one be?

Remove the one in the pump house.

 

[Valveman]

Remove the check valve in the well house. Replace it with a CSV1A or or if your tank is bad use a PK1A kit with a new 4.5 gallon size tank. Then make sure you have a good check valve screwed right to the pump. The Cycle Stop Valve will not "mess up the amount of pressure/consistency" but will have the opposite effect. The CSV will give you such strong constant pressure you will no longer even need soap in the shower. Oh and plus the CSV will make your pump last 30 years give or take, because it is the cycling that is destroying your pumps every 6 months.