Pump advice

[FrankBranch]

We have a bit unusual water situation here, our water comes from a spring fed from a lake in a cave. The cave / spring is located in the limestone bluffs behind the house. Our setup consists of a concrete spring box feeding a 2" line that runs down the hillside to a pump house. Inside the house is a check valve, then a harbor freight combo pump / pressure tank and a whole house sediment filter. System has about 20' of head going into the pump house. Pressure builds to about 40 pounds, pump shuts off, pressure tank is about 3 gallons. I notice the pump cycling quite a bit, even when there is no water consumption, was wondering how effective the check valve was with limited pressure across it. We are in the process of doing a remodel, and I am looking to upgrade. Objectives include getting a larger pressure tank, a better quality pump and obtaining higher, more consistent water pressure. What hardware would be a good fit for our situation. I plan to locate the pump / pressure tank in the crawl space under the house to protect from freezing.

 

[Valveman]

The 20/40 pressure from the pump should be plenty to keep the check valve closed. But you need a good spring loaded check valve, not a flapper check, weighted or ball check. If the check valve is working properly the pump should not turn on when there is no water consumption.

A larger pressure tank is actually the opposite of what you want for "more consistent water pressure". The larger the tank the longer you will be at low pressure. A Cycle Stop Valve will not be "more consistent", but rather it will deliver "constant pressure" to the house, and will work with the small tank. We normally use a 4.5 gallon size tank that will hold 1 gallon of water with the CSV.

The most common pressure used these days is 40/60. So you would need a pump that can deliver that much pressure, and a CSV as in the Pside-Kick kit will hold the pressure at a constant 50 PSI while you are using water. The constant 50 PSI from the CSV makes for much stronger pressure in the house than when not using a CSV and the pressure keeps swinging from 40 to 60 over and over.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[FrankBranch]

Thanks, the check valve is indeed a flapper type, mounted vertically. I replaced this valve last year, the old one jammed open. Can you suggest a brand for a spring loaded check valve? What are some good brands of pumps for this application?

 

[FrankBranch]

In thinking further, seems like a cycle stop valve functions (and looks) more like a pressure regulator. Couple of hardware configuration questions for the forum:
- The photo that was posted shows the check valve on the pump output, ours is on the input. Which location is preferred, or does it matter?
- Same question regarding our cartridge type sediment filter, where should it be in relation to the check valve & pump?

 

[Valveman]

The Cycle Stop Valve does work like a pressure regulator as long as you are using water. It will keep the pressure at a constant 50 PSI as long as you are using more than 1 GPM, and not let the pump build to 60 and cycle on and off repeatedly. But when you stop using water the CSV turns into a flow control valve that lets the tank fill at 1 GPM. Only when you have turned off all the faucets will the CSV let the 1 GPM go into the pressure tank, which then fills to 60 PSI, and lets the pressure switch shut off the pump.

The constant 50 PSI from the CSV will be much stronger pressure in the house than an average of 50 PSI, which happens without a CSV while the pump is cycling on/off between 40 and 60.

With a flooded suction line you can have the check valve before or after the pump, it doesn't matter. The filter needs to be after the pressure tank/pressure switch in most cases.

 

[Reach4]

Can you suggest a brand for a spring loaded check valve?

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/suggestions-on-check-valve-quality.64397/#post-476510