Proper way to do condensate drain into ABS

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Allan Chong

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I'm installing another Takagi tankless, and doing the condensing high efficiency one.

Coming out of the bottom, there is the condensate drain which this time I can't dump
into a hole in basement. I'm running it into a neutralizer, then coming out of that with
3/4 PVC.

1) do I still need the 3/4 running trap with the neutralizer? I'm guessing I do since it looks like
some air could flow up through neutralizer. Some people build a little T and vent in after the trap.
Necessary?

2) where to from here? there is a 2" ABS drain directly under, and laundry/washer
an arm length away. I'd like to avoid dumping into the laundry sink, but instead go
into fitting more permanently. 3/4 ABS bushings look pretty rare, and wasn't sure
whether I should go into wye, santee, airgap, and whether I should transition up in size
near the neutralizer and then transition PVC-ABS hubless coupling in between.

should the tie into DWV be above flood level of sink or is below ok?


any hints or pics?

Thanks,
allan
 

Tuttles Revenge

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I don't think the condensate drain needs a trap to function per se. If you connect it to your building DWV system, that connection needs to be trapped, vented and maybe protected against dehydrating... tho the waterheater condensate should take care of that.

We frequently use the standpipe of a clothes washer to dump condensate and relief drains. Usually by adding a WYE and another opening.
 

wwhitney

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Another option for connecting upstream of an existing trap (so that you don't need to add a trap) would be to put a y-branch tailpiece on the laundry sink. Then the neutralized condensate can discharge into the laundry sink tailpiece rather than into the basin. I'm unclear on the air gap requirements for this configuration.
 
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