Procedure for No Caulk Shower Drain

Users who are viewing this thread

rookie123

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
Hello:

I'm installing a new fiberglass shower pan on plywood subfloor with no access from below and have a few questions in using a no caulk shower drain.

1. Plastic or Brass? Besides cost and strength, any reason to pick one over the other ? Do they both install the same?
2. In securing drain to pan should anything go under the top part of drain to secure to pan? Silicone or plumbers putty? If so, is this dependent on wither its plastic or brass? Should either of these go on the underside before large locking nut?
3. What should the height of the 2" pipe coming up and into drain be? Height of gasket? ( allowing for slight rise of pan due to mortar thickness underneath )
4. Once small locking ring is securely tightened with special tool is it recommended to put a bead of silicone around top of gasket creating a slight slope to drain?

Btw i looked at the Bruco and Wingtite drains but they seem better suited to pans that are already installed and want to be kept but the drain replaced, correct?

Thanks in advance for any help, much appreciated.
Jeff
 

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!
Messages
5,458
Reaction score
213
Points
63
Location
Land of Cheese
I have not seen the brass version, but either way I would simply follow the manufacturers installation instructions.
 

rookie123

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
Yes, that is what seals the shower drain to the riser.
thks for the replys. i actually have some side access to drain but it might be tricky since i only have a limited amount of time to glue and push up from side/below...would it be ok to complete drain install to trap and portion of horizontal run...concrete in and then use a mechanical fitting to complete? thks
 

rookie123

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
Thinking about it, is a glued fitting perferred over a compression? i feel better with a glued seal, but curious to know wht others like? with access i could get a glued fit with everything but the critical riser to drain bottom which would be glue and feel only ...no sight line, so thts why i ask about doing the whole thing, dropping it with morter, then completeing with mech fitting.
 

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!
Messages
5,458
Reaction score
213
Points
63
Location
Land of Cheese
The no-caulk drain works great. The drain, trap, and riser is installed first, and you can test fit it with the pan to make sure everything is lined up before actually setting the pan the final time in a mortar bed. If I had full access from below, then there is even more room for adjustment after the pan is in, but it should not be needed.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks