Problems with deep well...

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mmmike

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Hi All,
I am over my head here. Suggestions, observations and commentary would be appreciated.

Our well has been failing to run. The Start reset button pops on the G0271013 Control box approximately every third system cycle. I press the reset and generally it resets properly, but every third or forth time, it pops a second time. It had been working fine for the past 6 months and has worked OK for up to two years before some sort of failure over the past 16 years.

The components of our well system.
1. Pump - Sta-Rite L30P4JH-03, 4" Submersible Pump, 5 HP, 28 Stages, 30 GPM @ 540' , 2" Discharge
2. Control - G0271013 Submersible Motor and Pump Control Boxes Control Box,5HP,230V,1Phase
3. Wiring from control to pump - apx. 400' of #6 CU, 3 conductor with insulated ground that looks like #8. I am not certain of the wire gauge, I have some extra scraps of the wire and will try to confirm the exact size. It might be #4 and #6 respectively.

The well was installed about 16 years ago, using the above components. The pump was replaced with an exact duplicate about 10 years ago. The control box has been replaced every 2-3 years for the past 10 years. The last two controls were in May 2014 and I replaced it with number 6 today, but it had no positive effect on the current failure situation as described above. I have a pile of 5 old controls archived in the well house now.

I was not here when the well was originally installed. It seems to be more of a headache than it should be. When I bring in "experts" their solution is to replace everything with exactly what was there before. I have yet to have anyone do any real diagnostic analysis, and I just cannot afford to keep doing what we have been doing.

The well is probably deeper than it needs to be and the pump is probably larger than it needs to be, but I was not around when those decisions were being made.

I assumed the guy who did the original install knew what he was doing, but he is not around any more and I am not sure if he was competent or not. He was getting paid by the foot and I think he was making some extra cash.

Currently the existing system will only work if I sit in the well house and reset the Start breaker in the control box every few duty cycles, obviously not the ideal system. This started again a few days ago...

I would appreciate any suggestions or comments.
Mike
Thanks for the comments. I have made additional discovery which may shed light on my dilemma. When I turn off the waterlines outside of my well-house that feed my residence, the pressure tank still drains as soon as the pump shuts off. I am thinking I have a non-functioning check valve. If I add a new check valve in the well house between the well and the pressure tank, it should prevent the pressure tank from pushing the water back down the well and may be a band aid until I am able to pull the well input pipe and replace the supposed defective unit. Right now, everything is under about 5' of snow. Any thoughts? Am I doing something stupid?
 
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Valveman

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Having to push the overload button and a pile of control boxes is a good sign the pump is cycling too much. Pumps love to run and like running 24/7, but they can only take a certain number of on/off cycles. You already got more than the 7 year average, so the pump probably cycles a little less than the average pump. Replace the start capacitor and start relay or get another control box. If a new box keeps tripping the overload, the motor is shot.

Reduce or eliminate the number of cycles is the only way to make a pump last longer. With a 30 GPM pump I would use at least two 119 gallon size bladder tanks, and three would be better. Or if the water level is deeper than about 200', that size pump will work with a CSV and you don't need a very large tank, maybe an 80 gallon size tank or so.

CSV stands for Cycle STOP Valve. It does just what the name implies.
 
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