Problem with Fleck 7000sxt

[chasmosis1]

I am on a 110' private well, plenty of water, but lots of silt. The well can't go any deeper for fear of collapsing the walls. I am going from the well to the pressure tank, than to the Fleck 7000sxt single tank being used as a backwash filter, than to a Fleck 9100sxt dual tank used as the softener, than a Rusco filter, than a GE whole house filter and finally to the house. The reason for the last two filters is that the silt is honestly that fine that some of it gets to that point. My question is that the Fleck 7000sxt was leaking through the backwash line and always streaming (it's set up as a grey water line) so I disassembled the unit and cleaned it out, reassembled it using plumbers grease, but now it sounds like water is constantly running through it. If I set the valves to bypass the sound goes away. When I disassembled the unit the distributor tube and diffuser cone pulled out so I had to lay the tank on its side to get the media to the side and get the tube back in. Not sure if this had something to do with it or not. I'm thinking about tearing it back down but would like to hear some input.

 

[Reach4]

but now it sounds like water is constantly running through it

sounds like? Can you look at the drain line output to be sure?

How old is it?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[chasmosis1]

sounds like? Can you look at the drain line output to be sure?

How old is it?

Thanks for the reply. It's 2-3 years old. I remove the drain line from the head and there is no water running through it when it is not backwashing.

 

[Reach4]

So it appears to me that the head is somehow just radiating sound produced elsewhere rather than leaking water. Nothing to worry about IMO for the controller. Question: when you are not using water and pump has stopped running, what does the pressure gauge do? Does it hold steady for hours, or is the pump cycling periodically?

I would have put the Rusco filter and probably the sediment filter before the softener. TwistIIClean would probably be worth looking at if you have a lot of sediment coming in.

 

[ditttohead]

Agreed. The Fleck and Clack valves are amazing but if you are going to subject them to sediment, some type of filter would be advised ahead of them. The piston/seal design can last for many years and be totally trouble free but they are more prone to damage caused by scratches. Many of our customers use the Autotrol valves for water that has lots of sediment and when they don't want to put any pre-treatment on the equipment. The Autotrol uses a flapper disc design that is not easily damaged by sediment.

Here is the Rusco vs Twist to clean video
http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!videos/pyb89

 

[chasmosis1]

thanks for the replies guys. First I will say that I found the problem. After thinking about it for a few days I decided to remove the timer/motor assembly and look at the piston. The first time I had trouble figuring out how to remove this assembly without breaking it so I removed the motor from it first. When you remove the gear reduced motor you are able to turn the remaining gears, By turning the remaining gears you than get them out of sync and your piston can be in or out too far. I figured this out by disassembling it while the water was on. I adjusted the piston shaft to be half way between the two points of moving water and reinstalled the gear assembly than installed the motor onto it. Now everything is quiet and working correctly.

As for the filter.....You guys have me a little confused. I can see how the Rusco & sediment filters would be good to put before the softener which uses the 9100 head, but the 7000 is a backwashing filter. I specifically installed the 7000 to remove the larger amount of sediment prior to the softener. I am definitely open to suggestions?

 

[Bannerman]

The Twist to Clean would remove much of the sediment prior to the backwashing filter thereby reducing the 7000 exposure to abrasive silt. The backwashing filter would then take-care of whatever debris, if any, that makes it through the T2C filter.

For interest, what media is currently within the backwashing filter?

FYI, Dittohead has a video posted on Youtube which reviews the Fleck 7000 rebuilding and re-assembly process.

 

[chasmosis1]

So you're suggesting:
Well....Pressure tank....T2C filter.....Whole house filter......backwash filter......Softener....house? Or should the whole house filter be the final device before the house?
I honestly don't remember what media is in the filter. I can tell you it is white. Is the T2C filter better than the Rusco? Are there different screen sizes for the T2C?

Thank you much for the help....

 

[Reach4]

1. Well....Pressure tank....T2C filter......backwash filter.....Whole house filter......Softener....house

Or
2. Well....Pressure tank....backwash filter.....T2C filter......Whole house filter......Softener....house

 

[ditttohead]

The T2C filter is designed for debris, etc, let it be first. They are used to protect downstream equipment and considering how easy they are to clean and how reasonably priced they are...

http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!videos/pyb89

T2C video

 

[chasmosis1]

Gotcha. I'll pick one up and put it in line between the pressure tank and the backwash filter. I'll leave the FXHTC whole house in line just prior to the house.

Dittohead, nice Jeep videos. I build them as a hobby.....

Thanks guys.

 

[Bannerman]

Beyond a last ditch effort to catch any remaining silt that made it through, what is the purpose of the FXHTC cartridge filter? As I expect you chose a carbon filter for a reason, are there chemicals or other elements you are concerned with and want to remove?

 

[ditttohead]

Ditch the FXHTC filter, not needed.

Re: Jeep, Thanks, I am in the process of putting on a roof top tent on my old military trailer this weekend. I just ordered the gas struts, hinges etc. Getting ready for a cross state run, 3 days of no civilization... should be fun!

 

[chasmosis1]

Bannerman the FXHTC is to catch anything else, which it does well. I would say it is more like dust that it catches. Ater having the front load washer flood the wash room three times and having problems with the tankless water heater shutting down in the middle of multiple showers you do what it takes to make sure there is nothing but water in the water.......

Dittohead that sounds like a blast. I enjoy building the Jeeps myself. I just finished installing a Hemi in my YJ

 

[Reach4]

Bannerman the FXHTC is to catch anything else, which it does well. I would say it is more like dust that it catches.

That final cartridge filter also serves as a quality control detection device for chasmosis1.

 

[Bannerman]

Bannerman the FXHTC is to catch anything else,...

That final cartridge filter also serves as a quality control detection device for chasmosis1.

I would expect a simple sediment cartridge would have been chosen for that purpose and would be less expensive to replace on a regular basis. Not explained is why a carbon cartridge was chosen. As the quantity of carbon would be too low to be of much benefit in a point-of-entry application, as Dittohead specified, eliminate that filter.

 

[Reach4]

I was incorrectly thinking the FXHTC was a simple polypropylene cartridge filter (I had just looked at a picture unfortunately), but I now see it has some carbon in it for chlorine removal. Since there is no chlorine, would that carbon be a growing surface for bacteria?

Does the backwashing of a backwashing activated carbon filter inhibit bacterial growth on the media when there is no chlorine used during the backwash?

 

[chasmosis1]

Just like Reach4, I was unaware that it was actually a carbon filter until I broke one open the other day. I still need a filter prior to the house as the carbon filter is still getting dirt in it and is preventing that dirt from entering the house/appliances. What would you all suggest in its place?

 

[Reach4]

After my backwashing iron+sulfur filter, I have 3 20x4.5 Pentek Big Blue housings. I ordered those before deciding to get the backwashing filter. The first housing I keep empty. The second has a PENTEK-DGD-5005-20 and the last is a string-wound 1 micron filter: PENTEK-WP1BB20P The empty housing had a few rust flakes after 13 months. The first filter in the second housing was slightly gray. The final filter looked pristine. So my 3 housings were way overkill once I got the backwashing filter.

If I were you, I am thinking one housing using the PENTEK-DGD-5005-20 might be good. That is a 50/5 micron polypropylene filter element. Cartridges are not expensive. Also get a spare O-ring-- especially if you don't get a bypass setup for the filter. Otherwise a failed o-ring would put you out of action. Also get some silicone grease that you apply lightly over the O-ring. I got a 5.x ounce tube of Molykote 111 which will last a very long time. You can also get a smaller tube such as Danco 1/2 oz. Silicone Grease Model Number: 9D00088693

A nice thing about that size housing is there are a lot of available cartridges. Also the drop in a bigger filter is less... about half that of a 10x4.5 and about one fifth the pressure drop of a a 20 x 2 inch element.

Note the housing is heavy when you unscrew, so it is best to have a spot where you are not holding the cartridge at arm's length.

 

[Bannerman]

With a Twist-2-Clean located before the larger back washing sediment filter, will a cartridge filter remain necessary?

What is the backwash flow rate, duration and frequency for the back washing filter?