Pressure Won't Drop

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Plainview

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I have a well with a 2 year old cycle stop valve. It has an air over water tank downstream of the CSV. I drain the pressure tank once a year because it becomes waterlogged. I turned my pump off and drained the tank last night, and this morning the pressure tank was empty but the pressure on the downstream side of the CSV was still at 45psi thus not allowing my 40-60 pressure switch to cut in. I opened the hose bib just downstream of the CSV and there isn't any pressure there (There aren't any check valves downstream of the CSV). I can provide power to the pump with lever on the side of the pressure switch and build pressure (and water comes out of the hose bib), but when I open the hose bib the pressure again only drops to 45psi. The pressure gage and pressure switch are tapped in on the body of the CSV on the downstream side, one on each side of the CSV. I also have a pressure gage upstream of the CSV because I was curious about head loss across the CSV. It also has pressure when my hose bib is open.

Any ideas on how to get my pressure to drop below 45psi? I was considering just unscrewing the pressure gage.

Any ideas on what would cause this? I've drained the pressure tank before without problem.

Thanks.
 

Valveman

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I am thinking it is just the little nipple to the pressure switch and gauge that is clogged. There really can't be 45 PSI after the CSV and no water in the pressure tank, as the pressure tank is after the CSV as well. Line to pressure switch can clog and the gauge and switch still show 45 PSI when there is no water in the system.
 

Plainview

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OK, thanks for the reply. I'll just take them both off and see if there's any clogging.
 

Plainview

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Well, I'm not sure if that was the problem or not, but my table is set at 40psi so I'm good to go.

Thanks for the advice.

On a practical note, the pressure switch was only 2 years old. Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the future? It's interesting that both the pressure switch and pressure gage got clogged at the same time.

Pressure Gage.jpg
 

Reach4

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On a practical note, the pressure switch was only 2 years old. Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the future? It's interesting that both the pressure switch and pressure gage got clogged at the same time.

You could run a 1/2 inch brass nipple up maybe 6 inches or so, and tee off to the gauge and pressure switch from there. Any sediment would have to climb that distance and fill the space.

What kind of sediment or precipitate do you have? Sanitizing your well and plumbing may help with some stuff.
 

Plainview

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I have a nipple that tees up about an inch for the pressure switch. Good suggestion on raising that up. There was a small amount of rust residue in the pressure gage. I think the line that goes down into the well is steel pipe, so it's likely from that.

I didn't see any visible sediment. There was a small amount of white residue on the nipple. We don't have particularly hard water.
 

Reach4

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The next time you drain your pressure tank, you might want to look at what comes out first.
 

LLigetfa

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Well, I'm not sure if that was the problem or not, but my table is set at 40psi so I'm good to go.

Thanks for the advice.

On a practical note, the pressure switch was only 2 years old. Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the future? It's interesting that both the pressure switch and pressure gage got clogged at the same time.
Are you sure it is clogged? Has the gauge been exposed to freezing temps? When they freeze, the coiled tube inside gets stretched.
 

Boycedrilling

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The pressure gauges no longer work in 1/3 to 1/2 of the pump houses I go in. Replacing the pressure gauge is usually one of the first things I do.
 

Plainview

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I replaced both the pressure switch and gage and everything works well. Everything worked well (apparently) before I drained the pressure tank, so I'm guessing that I stirred up some sediment somewhere.

Thanks for all your help and advice.
 

Cacher_Chick

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To avoid problems with the debris in the switch, I use a long piece of full 3/4" or 1" pipe as a riser and mount the switch at the top of it. It's nice to have the switch and gauge 4' up off the floor, and is lasts longer being there.
 
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