I've been browsing this site over the last couple of months since I am aware that I have an issue or two brewing. Long story short (happy to share the long story later if it will help), I've determined that I need to install a new pressure tank as, even if is not the issue (fairly certain it is part of it), it was installed in 1983 and probably won't hurt to freshen things up a bit.
Current tank is a Well-x-trol WX-203 and I will probably replace it with Water Worker **32B since they are readily available at a BBS near me. After reading through several posts, I will also likely add a CSV in the near future but for now, with my 3/4 HP Franklin pump recently beginning to run only 20-30 seconds before stopping, I need to do something this weekend. It used to easily run more than minute a while back.
I am looking for an opinion for the best approach to possibly clean up the current set of fittings in place. As I look at what was used to tie everything together, I can't help but think it was done in a way that reduces efficiency and throughput. It might not since everything house-wise is 3/4" or 1/2". I am going to try to attach a picture as I believe that will explain the situation much more quickly.
Overview of tank area layout:
Closer view of tank T:
Closer view of T to valves:
But a short description since size of fittings is tough to judge from pictures would be:
- Well line runs into a check valve designed for 1 1/4" I believe.
- 1" (1.12" OD) pipe runs out of pressure tank into 1 1/4" cross pipe/T (1.35"ish OD) where pressure switch and gauge are mounted (I replaced both in the last three or for years).
- Outlet end has interior and exterior threads with interior in use by what appears to be a 1" to 3/4" reducer which connects to a piece of regular rubber air line hose to make the jog to the valves.
- Hose connects to a 3/4" to 1" expansion then up one more time to get into valve (sorry, I can't remember the names of the fittings right now)
- Outlet to house is ultimately necked back down to 3/4" copper pipe that is split early on to run to house on one side and sprinklers/outside fixtures on the other.
On a side note, I read a plumbing book or parts anyway a while back and found it amusing looking the author's illustration of a bad distribution compared to a good distribution layout as he probably could have saved some time and had me send a picture of mine for the bad. Looks practically the same.
The pictures I took for this indicate some rusting on the fittings and valves so I might be opening a can of worms when I disconnect things to pull the tank.
Would anyone have suggestions on a good way to correct the tank area layout and lose all of the unnecessary fittings and whatnot? I do have HD and Lowes nearby. Or maybe in the end with everything pushing into 3/4" pipe, it won't really make a difference.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
----
Long story or a brief history of questioning the house plumbing:
Bought house in May and started using underground sprinkler system. System has three zones with three sprinklers per zone and they used to be the Rainbird impact type. Sprinklers kept stalling out when pressure dropped so I replaced them with gear driven direct replacements from Hunter which kept turning (though slower) throughout pressure fluctuation. I tend to believe the impacts must have performed better when first installed as I can't imagine the previous owner would have put up with something not performing the way it should. Began timing pump run times on occasion.
Installed whole house filtered to help interior fixtures clear up from possible iron bacteria. Eventually replaced water heater that had a lot of sediment in the bottom.
Noticed issues with pump run times which led me to replace the pressure switch and gauge.
Recently noticed pump times were in 35-40 second range. Emptied pressure tank and checked precharge. which was around 14 psi. I had checked it a few years ago, and probably when I replaced the gauge and switch and it had been around 20 or so (using a 30/50) so had repressured to 28. With it at 14 psi, I pressured it back to 28. Did notice that after getting it to 28, the pressure gauge indicated that pressure as well and I don't remember it doing that before. I did not open the system drain valve prior to pressuring the tank so may have been the reason for that. Flow at faucets seemed improved for a little bit and pump run time increased to 50-55 but as mentioned, it is now at less than 30. So I probably screwed something up or it was just time.
Current tank is a Well-x-trol WX-203 and I will probably replace it with Water Worker **32B since they are readily available at a BBS near me. After reading through several posts, I will also likely add a CSV in the near future but for now, with my 3/4 HP Franklin pump recently beginning to run only 20-30 seconds before stopping, I need to do something this weekend. It used to easily run more than minute a while back.
I am looking for an opinion for the best approach to possibly clean up the current set of fittings in place. As I look at what was used to tie everything together, I can't help but think it was done in a way that reduces efficiency and throughput. It might not since everything house-wise is 3/4" or 1/2". I am going to try to attach a picture as I believe that will explain the situation much more quickly.
Overview of tank area layout:
Closer view of tank T:
Closer view of T to valves:
But a short description since size of fittings is tough to judge from pictures would be:
- Well line runs into a check valve designed for 1 1/4" I believe.
- 1" (1.12" OD) pipe runs out of pressure tank into 1 1/4" cross pipe/T (1.35"ish OD) where pressure switch and gauge are mounted (I replaced both in the last three or for years).
- Outlet end has interior and exterior threads with interior in use by what appears to be a 1" to 3/4" reducer which connects to a piece of regular rubber air line hose to make the jog to the valves.
- Hose connects to a 3/4" to 1" expansion then up one more time to get into valve (sorry, I can't remember the names of the fittings right now)
- Outlet to house is ultimately necked back down to 3/4" copper pipe that is split early on to run to house on one side and sprinklers/outside fixtures on the other.
On a side note, I read a plumbing book or parts anyway a while back and found it amusing looking the author's illustration of a bad distribution compared to a good distribution layout as he probably could have saved some time and had me send a picture of mine for the bad. Looks practically the same.
The pictures I took for this indicate some rusting on the fittings and valves so I might be opening a can of worms when I disconnect things to pull the tank.
Would anyone have suggestions on a good way to correct the tank area layout and lose all of the unnecessary fittings and whatnot? I do have HD and Lowes nearby. Or maybe in the end with everything pushing into 3/4" pipe, it won't really make a difference.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
----
Long story or a brief history of questioning the house plumbing:
Bought house in May and started using underground sprinkler system. System has three zones with three sprinklers per zone and they used to be the Rainbird impact type. Sprinklers kept stalling out when pressure dropped so I replaced them with gear driven direct replacements from Hunter which kept turning (though slower) throughout pressure fluctuation. I tend to believe the impacts must have performed better when first installed as I can't imagine the previous owner would have put up with something not performing the way it should. Began timing pump run times on occasion.
Installed whole house filtered to help interior fixtures clear up from possible iron bacteria. Eventually replaced water heater that had a lot of sediment in the bottom.
Noticed issues with pump run times which led me to replace the pressure switch and gauge.
Recently noticed pump times were in 35-40 second range. Emptied pressure tank and checked precharge. which was around 14 psi. I had checked it a few years ago, and probably when I replaced the gauge and switch and it had been around 20 or so (using a 30/50) so had repressured to 28. With it at 14 psi, I pressured it back to 28. Did notice that after getting it to 28, the pressure gauge indicated that pressure as well and I don't remember it doing that before. I did not open the system drain valve prior to pressuring the tank so may have been the reason for that. Flow at faucets seemed improved for a little bit and pump run time increased to 50-55 but as mentioned, it is now at less than 30. So I probably screwed something up or it was just time.
