Pressure tank question

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Forever Fixing

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My 2hp pump was cycling every time the water was used so I called our well installer. His directions were to turn off pump. Close the discharge valves and drain the water from the pressure tank threw the faucet close to the pressure tank. I did this and drained the pressure tank by adding air to the top. Some water was rust colored but not too bad. (Tank is a Well Trol Model WX 350) I put 20# into the tank with the valves closed and then opened the drain bib. My air escaped and the tank returned to zero pressure. From this I would guess the bladder is no longer intact. (start pressure is 40, cut off pressure is 60 so I pumped 38#’s into the tank) For now it is sounding better.

My question is, what is the difference in an air bladder tank and what is now an accumulator tank. (air trapped on the top) The well system installer said I would be good to go after filling the tank with air once again. I do not want a problematic system or shorten the life of my 2 hp submerged pump 400 feet down our well so I would like to know what is best for the system. The pressure tank is over a thousand dollars so I wanted reassurance on steps to follow. Thank you in advance.
 

Reach4

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You can work around the failed diaphragm by adding air, but that will get old.

The main difference between the working precharge bladder tank vs the "conventional" tank with no diaphragm or bladder is that the conventional tank needs a way for air to be added regularly, usually with each pump start. Then another part, the air volume control (AVC) would release excess air.

Until you replace your tank, you will occasionally add air. Getting the right amount, so that you are not blowing gobs of air through the faucets, will be a bit tricky.
 

Forever Fixing

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Thank you. This is the first problem I have had in 29 years and just wanted to be sure what was what. I'll start shopping. At least it is not running every time we use water now. That will give me time to get it replaced. Thank you again.
 

Valveman

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In the past using a huge 119 gallon tank like that WX350 was the best way to make a pump last. If yours has been in place that long it is a testament to how long a pump can last by reducing the number of on/off cycles. However, even with the largest tank available the old pressure switch type system still cycled on/off enough to finally wear a hole or split in the tank diaphragm. The general procedure is the tank becomes waterlogged, the pump cycles rapidly as you have noticed for a short while, and then you need to replace the pump, tank, and everything.

There are much better ways to control that pump these days. I have a 2HP pump with a 10 gallon pressure tank, which has already lasted almost as long as your system. The difference is I have a Cycle Stop Valve to reduce the cycles, so I don't need a huge and expensive tank.

A plus is the strong constant pressure from the CSV as compared to the long periods of time at low pressure when using a large tank.

 
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