Pressure Tank Outbuilding

[TVL]

I've decided it's now time to relocate the 30 gallon pressure tank that is underneath the house to outside. The crawl space underneath the house is fairly low and any type tank work would be a real pain in the rear end!

I've purchased a Well-X-Trol 62 gallon tank and want to build a small building that will house ONLY the tank and pressure switch/pressure gauge. The building I plan to build will be 48" X 32" and about 5 feet tall. I plan to stick build the enclosure with 2X4's and T1-11 siding on top of a 5" slab of concrete. I will build it so that the front wall can be removed for ease of servicing.

I want to insulate somehow to prevent freezing in the winter. Here in South Carolina we have about 2 fairly cold months where the temperatures can sometimes drop to the mid teens during the night. But for the most part, we generally have what is considered a mild winter.

1- Insulation is surely a necessity if I want to avoid possible freezing of a line or the tank, BUT will it create issues for me during the summer months? The building will be somewhat sealed and I'm not sure if sweating will be an issue or not?

2- Or, would it be best to wrap ONLY the tank and the exposed PVC piping and do nothing with the walls? In this manner, the tank and piping should be protected from freezing, but during the hot months this type insulation job should also keep the tank and piping from sweating and creating moisture issues in the enclosed building. Does this seem reasonable?

3- Any other ideas or thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks so much!

 

[PumpMd]

Don't forget about a heat source because insulation only traps heat in, it doesn't crate heat. The nipple below the pressure switch freezes first, so I have my heat blowing towards it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Patton-Electric-Utility-Milkhouse-Heater-PUH680-U/25521681

I see tank wraps or they just wrap it in house insulation and tape it up to make it hold. I see people using heat tapes as well, and the last one is a heat lamp bulb.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Also see https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ld-a-pressure-tank-pump-house-for-20-f.65938/

 

[PumpMd]

We talked about the tank sweating here as well

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/pump-guys-discussing-whatever.62373/page-2

 

[TVL]

Thanks for the replies!

Right now I'm more concerned with the enclosure being "sealed". I really didn't want to install vents for various reasons, but was hoping someone with experience would comment. Maybe I'm just over-thinking the project and a small tank house without venting will cause no issues. I know insulation will be required and I will most certainly do it, but I don't want to introduce other issues by the enclosure being too tight/sealed. And then again, maybe a tight enclose is the best approach ............... but we do have some muggy summers here in SC.

Thanks again!

 

[PumpMd]

I have mine vented because my well is inside the well house and I need a way to pull it in the future. Yes, my tank & pipes sweat but it has a way out. People who completely seal their boxes tight, trap the moisture inside and it will rust your tank out. The first thing that takes the hit is your metal stand on the tank or the elbow.

 

[Reach4]

Note that sweating does not cause moisture -- sweating just concentrates moisture. The moisture, barring a leak, will come up mostly through the concrete. You may want to put a plastic sheet under or over your concrete to hold back moisture.

I suggest you add a couple of panels that you can open or close with the seasons.

Well-X-Trol WX-251UG is made to be buried. WX-251D has a composite (plastic) base that will not rust. But you already have your tank. Maybe set the tank on 3 or more bricks.

 

[Valveman]

If you don't let some air in the tank and lines will sweat in the summer. But if you have the smallest of mouse holes in the well house, it will let that north wind in and it will freeze in the winter. Electric heat is good until the electric goes out. Then the pipes are usually frozen before the power comes back on. I have seen really good well houses with the tank and pipe also wrapped freeze solid. A tiny little mouse hole on the north side let the cold air in, the power was off overnight, and the pipes were frozen when the power came back on.

I would have used a Pside-Kick kit with the little 4.5 gallon size tank and left it in the crawl space. The little 4.5 gallon size tank doesn't need much room and is easier to work on in tight spaces. And you wouldn't need to do any work on it, because the CSV1A in the kit would eliminate the cycling that causes bladders in tanks to go bad in the first place.

 

[PumpMd]

Sweating causes Condensation which turns into moisture. You plug the vent in the winter time and unplug it during the summer time.

 

[Valveman]

Sweating causes Condensation which turns into moisture. You plug the vent in the winter time and unplug it during the summer time.

Yep, you just have to remember to do it fall and spring. I have a vent under my house for the crawl space. I forgot to open it this spring. At least we don't have much humidity here in Lubbock or I would probably have a sweaty mess under there by now.

 

[TVL]

OK then, it appears the consensus is agreeing that venting would be advised. So:

The enclosure will be 48" X 32" X 60" . Is there a formula or general rule of thumb about what might be considered proper venting for a building of this size? Or would two soffit vents such as those shown in the photo (16" X 4") and installed on opposite sides be adequate?

And lastly, if the soffit vents shown are acceptable, will they be effective if I mount them near the top of the structure? I really do not wish to mount them low.

 

[PumpMd]

Is there a formula or general rule of thumb about what might be considered proper venting for a building of this size? That I do not know but attics have to vent and they come in different sizes. I would ask someone in that field of work.

We have lots of wind so a wind turbine vent is good to use here and leaves a good size hole over the well for future pulling (for other people that read this).
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...&thid=OIP.M8d0f4c88325ae262ff7f07a7f91a6395o0

 

[Valveman]

A roof vent or side vent is fine, but you need a place for air to enter and exit, like with both a roof and side vent. It is not the tank or fittings that cause me problems with condensation, but the wires in the pressure switch and control box. When the wires turn green you know you need more air flow.

 

[ACWxRADR]

tvl,

I'm in Nebraska (zone 5 in regards to climate zone). At our cabin resort community, we have not experienced too many troubles with our well systems through humid summers or cold @$$ winters. Most of our enclosures are set on a 4" concrete pad with the well pipe routed through a larger PVC pipe set in the concrete. Generally, we are using an above ground shallow well pump and both the pump and tank are enclosed in the "dog-house".

The enclosures are sized according to the pump and tank dimensions to allow plenty of elbow room for maintenance. They are simple closed-in wood structures but we don't vent them at all. We don't build them to be perfect seals, either. We do provide a hinged door on one long side and the top so that you can maneuver inside easily when open and then we line the walls and top with 3" to 4" Styrofoam insulation panels and a layer of 1" Tyvec type foam house wrap panel on the top of the concrete pad.

For heat in the winter we install one or two 75 watt incandescent lamps. But, we use the clear glass, 130 volt lamps, not the frosted white standard 120 volt house lamps. These 130 V lamps last forever. Some people install a regular heat lamp, but I think this is overkill and a waste of electricity.

The dog-house will remain above freezing for a long time after the power goes out, but not indefinitely, of course. We generally hope for the best.
This is at winter temperatures here that are typically in the low teens to mid twenties F.

If you are prone to power outages, then a possible solution would be to install a very small ventless propane heater with a thermostatic control and a RV size propane bottle to supply it. If your power goes out for an extended time, just light the propane heater. Of course, then you WILL have to provide some venting to supply oxygen to the propane heater.

Gordo

 

[TVL]

tvl,

I'm in Nebraska (zone 5 in regards to climate zone). At our cabin resort community, we have not experienced too many troubles with our well systems through humid summers or cold @$$ winters. Most of our enclosures are set on a 4" concrete pad with the well pipe routed through a larger PVC pipe set in the concrete. Generally, we are using an above ground shallow well pump and both the pump and tank are enclosed in the "dog-house".

The enclosures are sized according to the pump and tank dimensions to allow plenty of elbow room for maintenance. They are simple closed-in wood structures but we don't vent them at all. We don't build them to be perfect seals, either. We do provide a hinged door on one long side and the top so that you can maneuver inside easily when open and then we line the walls and top with 3" to 4" Styrofoam insulation panels and a layer of 1" Tyvec type foam house wrap panel on the top of the concrete pad.

For heat in the winter we install one or two 75 watt incandescent lamps. But, we use the clear glass, 130 volt lamps, not the frosted white standard 120 volt house lamps. These 130 V lamps last forever. Some people install a regular heat lamp, but I think this is overkill and a waste of electricity.

The dog-house will remain above freezing for a long time after the power goes out, but not indefinitely, of course. We generally hope for the best.
This is at winter temperatures here that are typically in the low teens to mid twenties F.

If you are prone to power outages, then a possible solution would be to install a very small ventless propane heater with a thermostatic control and a RV size propane bottle to supply it. If your power goes out for an extended time, just light the propane heater. Of course, then you WILL have to provide some venting to supply oxygen to the propane heater.

Gordo

Thanks for the information. This is very similar to what I've decided to build. I just poured the pad this past weekend and I am about ready to move to the next step. Thanks again for taking the time to give me some ideas!