Pressure tank for contact tank

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Charlees Larrabee

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Due to having IRB and small amount of clear water iron & manganese I'm planning to install a carbon filter and use chlorine injection. I have everything I need already except for a contact tank and a buddy of mine has a 120 gallon pressure tank with a ripped bladder he is willing to let me have. Model is wm35wb, curious if this can be retrofitted to save a few hundred dollars!
 

Reach4

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Due to having IRB and small amount of clear water iron & manganese I'm planning to install a carbon filter and use chlorine injection. I have everything I need already except for a contact tank and a buddy of mine has a 120 gallon pressure tank with a ripped bladder he is willing to let me have. Model is wm35wb, curious if this can be retrofitted to save a few hundred dollars!

Does this tank have a removable bladder? Then you could probably pull the bladder, cut out the bladder part, and replace the connections to make it waterproof. If it is a diaphragm with a leak in the diaphragm, you are not going to be able to get that out. Then once you have it going, the inside of that tank is probably not coated with something that is going to corrosion resistant enough. So it might get you by for a period before you buy a better tank.

If you buy a good contact tank with a blow down drain, you can drain off the settled solids easily.

I am not a pro.
 

Charlees Larrabee

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Does this tank have a removable bladder? Then you could probably pull the bladder, cut out the bladder part, and replace the connections to make it waterproof. If it is a diaphragm with a leak in the diaphragm, you are not going to be able to get that out. Then once you have it going, the inside of that tank is probably not coated with something that is going to corrosion resistant enough. So it might get you by for a period before you buy a better tank.

If you buy a good contact tank with a blow down drain, you can drain off the settled solids easily.

I am not a pro.

Tank is fiberglass so I'm assuming corrosion wouldn't be an issue. Bladder is removed and replaced from the bottom. My only concern is that the only in/out is on the bottom. How would I get the chlorine to mix with the water for the 30 minutes? Then even if I did get it to mix, would I still be able to fix up a drain so I could clean the bottom periodically?
 

Charlees Larrabee

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Good point. There is the major flaw in the idea.
Another option besides a retention tank for me would be one of the systems that goes on the well and drops chlorine into it. Do these really work well though? My well water is not bad and it's the IRB that's killing me.

Lab results are 7.4PH, 5gpg hardness, 4ppm Iron and .221 PPM manganese. Iron and manganese have been successfully filtered with KL media but I believe the IRB is fouling the resin because after about 6 months of use the filters are no longer working. I'm planning on changing from KL and going to GAC and using chlorine as an oxidizer just want to find the best way to introduce chlorine. I've been told the well itself can be a retention tank with a pellet chlorinator, but just was hoping to get more input. Space is definitely an issue and the retention tank would push that to the max
 

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Steel casing? The long term chlorine may not be good for that. Santizing procedures use higher levels of chlorine but for a limited time.

Do these really work well though? My well water is not bad and it's the IRB that's killing me.
I suggest sanitizing your well and plumbing better. http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up for sanitizing plumbing and bottom feeding wells with submersible pumps. In particular note the "flooding volume" thing.

I don't know how long this would last you, but I have high hopes that it would last much longer than the simpler pour-bleach method.
 
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