Pressure tank drain valve

[Leo1]

Hi All,

The guy, who replaced the well pump, said that the drain valve should be on the tee that connects to the pressure tank to be able to drain out sediments better. Is it correct? Would you recommend to add new valve?

I've attached the picture of the pressure tank connection that I currently have.

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Close enough, and better than many IMHO.

What I don't see is your pressure switch. If your pump shuts off too early during the fill, you can consider moving the pressure switch closer to the pressure tank. If no problem, no problem.

I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Leo1]

Close enough, and better than many IMHO.

What I don't see is your pressure switch. If your pump shuts off too early during the fill, you can consider moving the pressure switch closer to the pressure tank. If no problem, no problem.

I am not a pro.

Here is the full picture. The switch works fine but I noticed that the pump shutoff has shifted a little bit (less than 0.5 PSI) but maybe it's just a gauge error.

 

[Valveman]

That tee with the pressure switch, gauge, relief valve, and drain bibb, should have been put at the outlet of the tank. The wires should have been extended to the pressure switch at the base of the tank instead of extending the pipe up to the electric box.

 

[Leo1]

That tee with the pressure switch, gauge, relief valve, and drain bibb, should have been put at the outlet of the tank. The wires should have been extended to the pressure switch at the base of the tank instead of extending the pipe up to the electric box.

The switch is sitting on the pipe that is coming in the basement right from the well. It was done this way I do not know how many decades ago by one of the previous owners. I only had the tank replaced couple years ago when the 25+ year old tank started to leak.

So is there a real problem with this setup that needs to be resolved?

 

[Craigpump]

Ideally the pressure switch would be on a T at the tank, but with 1" plumbing and that short of a run its probably OK as long as the pressure switch doesn't bounce at cut out pressure.

What I don't care for are the galvanized fittings, especially the 1/4 nipple under the pressure switch. Galvanized corrodes & plugs which could cause the pressure switch to stay closed and over pressurize the system.

 

[Leo1]

Ideally the pressure switch would be on a T at the tank, but with 1" plumbing and that short of a run its probably OK as long as the pressure switch doesn't bounce at cut out pressure

The switch does not bounce at cut off but periodically it bounces pretty hard at cut on pressure. Is it because of it's location or because of something else?

 

[Craigpump]

Most likely the location. Either move it or try a snubber underneath it to control the pressure spikes.

 

[Valveman]

The switch does not bounce at cut off but periodically it bounces pretty hard at cut on pressure. Is it because of it's location or because of something else?

Yeah that is what I see. Pressure switch too far from the tank usually causes a bounce on pump start more than pump stop.

 

[Leo1]

Thanks you all for your responses! I will move the switch as you recommended.

 

[Reach4]

Here is the full picture. The switch works fine but I noticed that the pump shutoff has shifted a little bit (less than 0.5 PSI) but maybe it's just a gauge error.

I recently found that my shutoff had shifted maybe 3 pounds lower. I was wondering if this is common as the pressure switch spring ages. I have turned my adjusting nut on the Pumptrol switch 3.25 turns CW so far.

 

[Leo1]

Can the issue with the bouncing switch be because of sediment in water?

 

[LLigetfa]

Sediment can affect the switch if it builds up under the switch diaphragm or blocks the tube. If you have particularly nasty water you may need to clean both periodically. The cost of a switch is so little that replacement might be the easy fix.

 

[Leo1]

So moving the switch and adjusting air pressure in the tank worked. No more switch bouncing.

Thanks everyone for your help!