Hi all newbie here, I have a 120’ deep 1/2hp well w/a buried 20yr. 13 gal. psi tank. I installed a new20 gal psi tank and the associating piping and an isolation valve in my crawl space. Not using the tank now. Also a new 30/50 pressure switch ( old one was bad) is out at the well casing. The the pump psi will never reach 50 psi. Adjusted the large switch nut almost all the way down and the pump just runs forever never shutting off. No water leaks. Re adjusted switch to 30 cut on to 42 cut off. It takes about 1 - 1 1/2 min. before the pump shuts off. Pretty sure gauge is good. I am also not sure thats the right psi rating on the switch. seems It’s a 2 bath. 1500 sq. ft manufactured house. I really would like more water pressure. First, can I use the new press. tank w/ the old 13 gal. press. tank? Don’t want to dig it up. Second , is the pump running to long ? Should change the press. switch to a 20/40 psi? Third, will the outside press. switch still work w/ the new press. tank inside? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Pressure tank and pressure switch questions
- Thread starter Goose57
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Sorry for your problems. The pressure switch needs to be close to a tank. You can put a small tank with the switch at the well and still have a larger tank in the house, or move the switch to the tank, but it needs a tank close to the switch.
The old tank doesn't need to be dug up, but it does need to be disconnected. It will be full of contaminated water that will flush into the house when it wants. The old tank could also be leaking, which is why it doesn't build more pressure.
40/60 is the most common setting and a submersible pump should easily make that much pressure.
Pump running a short time is bad. But it is also bad to run a pump if it is no longer pumping water.
Even 40 to 60 is variable pressure. Want good strong constant pressure you will need to add a Cycle Stop Valve.
The old tank doesn't need to be dug up, but it does need to be disconnected. It will be full of contaminated water that will flush into the house when it wants. The old tank could also be leaking, which is why it doesn't build more pressure.
40/60 is the most common setting and a submersible pump should easily make that much pressure.
Pump running a short time is bad. But it is also bad to run a pump if it is no longer pumping water.
Even 40 to 60 is variable pressure. Want good strong constant pressure you will need to add a Cycle Stop Valve.
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Thanks valveman for you input. The pressure switch is out side in the pump casing. The other new tank is in the crawl space w/ its supply valve turned off. i don’t think the buried tank is leaking. No water on the surface. Is there a way to tell if the buried tank lost its pressure? It seems I do have pressure in the house. Also the water doesn’t seem to be contaminate. If I leave the buried tank alone and use the new tank and in addition to the to the buried tank and psi switch outside and the outside tank did not lose its air pressure what would I set the inside additional tanks air psi. at? And what is a short pump run time? Mine right now is between 1to 11/2 min. after a water tap is shut off. My well pump is 1/2 hp. I wish I had more info. On my pump. Thanks again.
Air pressure in any tank should be 2-5 PSI less than pump start pressure. The pressure switch needs to be close to a tank or the switch will bounce the pump on/off. If you do away with or the buried tank is bad, you will need to move the pressure switch inside, close to the new tank.
1.5 minutes of run time is good if the pump is not struggling to get up to 60 and shut off. If you have to turn the switch down to get the pump to shut off, any run time is probably not good as the pump isn't drawing enough to stay cool.
With the breaker to the pump off, open any faucet and watch a gauge as the pressure drops. It should drop slowly down to the same pressure as the pre-charge in the tank. Then it should fall or drop rapidly to zero. The pressure that it falls to zero from is the same as the amount of air charge in the tank. Slow drop to 38 PSI then sudden drop to zero means 38 PSI air in the tank.
Oh, and a bad buried tank will be ok until you shut off the power. Then the tank will dump all that contaminated water into the house.
1.5 minutes of run time is good if the pump is not struggling to get up to 60 and shut off. If you have to turn the switch down to get the pump to shut off, any run time is probably not good as the pump isn't drawing enough to stay cool.
With the breaker to the pump off, open any faucet and watch a gauge as the pressure drops. It should drop slowly down to the same pressure as the pre-charge in the tank. Then it should fall or drop rapidly to zero. The pressure that it falls to zero from is the same as the amount of air charge in the tank. Slow drop to 38 PSI then sudden drop to zero means 38 PSI air in the tank.
Oh, and a bad buried tank will be ok until you shut off the power. Then the tank will dump all that contaminated water into the house.
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Thanks Valveman. I really value all the help with this issue. I will do that breaker off to the pump test. If I understand the test right that also should tell me if the buried tank lost its air charge? I’ve had the breaker to the pump off several times and never got dirty water in the house. If I find that the buried tank has not lost its pressure by doing that test you recommended can I also use the new tank I installed inside in addition to the buried tank outside. The pressure switch would be near the buried tank. I also would set the air pressure on the new tank too. So I would have two tanks in the system. Or if I do find that the buried tank is OK I’ll just keep the new tank as a back up and only use one tank. I just don’t understand why the pump pressure won’t get up to 50 psi. (It’s a 30/50 switch). I can let the pump run for 2 or 3 min. And it will only get to 42 psi. I have to cut the pump off by adjusting the switch down at 42 psi or I think it will run for ever. Maybe I’ll try a new pressure gauge. Would doing a GPM volume test on the pump tell me anything? it is only a 1/2 hp. pump. i had the pump replaced years ago and I think the contractor said the well depth was 120 feet. Maybe I’m over thinking this. I’ll do some more testing and report back. If you think of anything else let me know. Thanks a lot.
Most likely there is a hole in the drop pipe or the pump is just worn out.
Finally got back to my well issue. Life gets in the way. Here’s where I’m at since the last time I posted.
1/2” hp. Pump
120’ depth
new 30/50 pressure switch/ switch in well casing near psi. tank.
13 gal. Buried pressure tank.
pump run time from 30 to 45 psi. 1:18 min.
took 1:01 to fill 5 gal bucket.
Did the test you suggested to find out what the buried tanks psi.is. About 14 psi. no water contamination in the house.
You said in post #4 that 1:50 min run time is ok as long as it’s not struggling to get to cut off psi. I don’t think mine is struggling to get to 45 psi. (my cut off psi. setting). It only takes 1:18 min. but if I set the cut off psi. higher then I think it’s struggling, it never gets to 50 psi. Maybe my gauge reading is 5 psi. off. Or like you said the pumps worn out. I did read on line about the CSV valve, it did say short run times is what kill pumps. I wonder if the short run times is bad for my pump?
Like I said before I really don’t want to dig up and delete the buried tank and move the pressure switch inside next to the new tank. Maybe I’ll add 14 psi. to the new tank and start using it. That will make a total of 28 psi. in both pressure tanks 2 psi. below the pumps cut on psi.
If all else fails I may look into the CSV. Thanks again. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Finally got back to my well issue. Life gets in the way. Here’s where I’m at since the last time I posted.
1/2” hp. Pump
120’ depth
new 30/50 pressure switch/ switch in well casing near psi. tank.
13 gal. Buried pressure tank.
pump run time from 30 to 45 psi. 1:18 min.
took 1:01 to fill 5 gal bucket.
Did the test you suggested to find out what the buried tanks psi.is. About 14 psi. no water contamination in the house.
You said in post #4 that 1:50 min run time is ok as long as it’s not struggling to get to cut off psi. I don’t think mine is struggling to get to 45 psi. (my cut off psi. setting). It only takes 1:18 min. but if I set the cut off psi. higher then I think it’s struggling, it never gets to 50 psi. Maybe my gauge reading is 5 psi. off. Or like you said the pumps worn out. I did read on line about the CSV valve, it did say short run times is what kill pumps. I wonder if the short run times is bad for my pump?
Like I said before I really don’t want to dig up and delete the buried tank and move the pressure switch inside next to the new tank. Maybe I’ll add 14 psi. to the new tank and start using it. That will make a total of 28 psi. in both pressure tanks 2 psi. below the pumps cut on psi.
If all else fails I may look into the CSV. Thanks again. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Finally got back to my well issue. Life gets in the way. Here’s where I’m at since the last time I posted.
1/2” hp. Pump
120’ depth
new 30/50 pressure switch/ switch in well casing near psi. tank.
13 gal. Buried pressure tank.
pump run time from 30 to 45 psi. 1:18 min.
took 1:01 to fill 5 gal bucket.
Did the test you suggested to find out what the buried tanks psi.is. About 14 psi. no water contamination in the house.
You said in post #4 that 1:50 min run time is ok as long as it’s not struggling to get to cut off psi. I don’t think mine is struggling to get to 45 psi. (my cut off psi. setting). It only takes 1:18 min. but if I set the cut off psi. higher then I think it’s struggling, it never gets to 50 psi. Maybe my gauge reading is 5 psi. off. Or like you said the pumps worn out. I did read on line about the CSV valve, it did say short run times is what kill pumps. I wonder if the short run times is bad for my pump?
Like I said before I really don’t want to dig up and delete the buried tank and move the pressure switch inside next to the new tank. Maybe I’ll add 14 psi. to the new tank and start using it. That will make a total of 28 psi. in both pressure tanks 2 psi. below the pumps cut on psi.
If all else fails I may look into the CSV. Thanks again. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Sarg
Enjoy Learning
"Maybe I’ll add 14 psi. to the new tank and start using it. That will make a total of 28 psi. in both pressure tanks 2 psi. below the pumps cut on psi."
Wow.
Wow.
You’re going to have to add air to the buried tank. If that means digging it up, you might as well just delete it. If the pump still struggles to reach 50psi, it has to come up like Valveman said, unless you limp it along with a 45psi cut out. There are no other options.
Won't that freeze?
Did you turn the nut on the big spring CCW or clockwise? (pressure down/nut up) or (pressure up/nut down)? You should have gone CCW.
The valve to add air will not be at the bottom of the buried tank, but will be at the top. The penalty for the air precharge being too low is that that will cause the diaphragm to fail earlier.
SuperGreg
Member
Would he? If all the air were to leak out it would just kind of disappear from the equation.
Yes. He needs a working pressure tank near the pressure switch. If the diaphragm leaks, there is no longer a working pressure tank.
Moving the pressure switch may not be as hard as envisioned, if the power to the well is coming from inside the house.
SuperGreg
Member
I definitely agree the pressure switch needs to be by the (working) pressure tank 
Hi guys thanks for all your input. Sorry for tripled post the forum kept kicking me out And I’m finally able to post again.
thanks, I push the switch and hose way down in the casing. Yes going CCW. I do believe theirs is some pressure in the buried tank and the diaphragm is damaged yet ( knock on wood). There are no signs of contamination in the water lines in the house.
I have been posting on another forum since I was having trouble on this site. Someone mention well depth and static and dynamic water levels. That got me thinking and I remember a contractor replacing my pump oh about 20 years ago and said my water level in the well was a little low. Maybe that’s why is why the pump is struggling after reaching 45 psi . I currently have the cut off pressure set at 45psi. Maybe I will set the cut off psi a little lower I sure don’t want to ruin the pump too soon. I’m assuming by all the posts it’s a bad idea of adding pressure to the new tank and using it with the buried tank with lower pressure and the pressure switch out by it. Maybe I’ll wait and use the new tank when the buried tank fails and move the pressure switch inside next to the new tank. Guys I really appreciate all your help. Any more input would be welcome. Thanks again.
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