Sorry for the story book, TLDR straight to the issue:
That is the issue, Assuming the new switch is good, the well pump does not always kick on at 40 PSI. The switch will constantly be closed so it should be running the well pump in theory. Every few minutes the well pump will kick on and fill the tank, but only 8-10 PSI at a time. After returning home after three hours it was at 55 PSI. We left before it was at 60 so I cannot verify if it reached 60 PSI and slowly leaked. The PS was in the open position.
Initial issue - in the shower and water pressure stops. Jump out check breaker, pipes for leaks, etc. I did not look at the pressure tank at this time. Go back to the shower, water pressure is back. Go back and check the tank at this time, at 60 PSI.
Starting with the cheapest thing I replaced the pressure switch. Drained the tank, installed new PS, apply 38 PSI to the air valve on the tank. I used an air compressor, based on a video, but was told that could be too much after a friend came over to help. was running around 80-90 PSI in the air compressor lines, did not over pressurize the tank went slow and stopped at 39 via tire pressure gauge on the tank valve. Just trying to add as many details as I can. I went through this twice to make sure I didn't do this incorrectly, 2nd time with only 40PSI in the air compressor lines. The water pressure line gauge reads about 3 PSI lower than what the tire pressure gauge reads on the valve of the tank.
there is a faucet before the tank, connected a hose and it had steady pressure for as long as we wanted, valve shut off going into the pressure tank. Good pressure for what we expected, water shot easily 20-25 ft flat. Our attempt as crossing off the pump as a culprit, but understand it could still be a problem.
On the 2nd tank pressurizing before opening the valve from the well pump, I opened the faucet that is directly below the PS to see if there was maybe a pin hole in the bladder, after it was at 38 PSI. Could not hear any leaking, but it did push out what we assumed was the rest of the water, with some particles. I have no pre-filter. I replaced a very old (50 years at least) water heater that had a lot of rust/debris in it and figured it was similar case. It held pressure for 5 minutes, then we proceeded to turn power back on to the well pump and opened the valves to the tank and house. Valves before and after the pressure switch faucet. I understand now I should have waited maybe 15 minutes and not 5.
It will cycle normally one or two times, turning on immediately at 38psi at start, filling to 60, then dropping to 40 with the bath running and kicking back on. Then on the next cycle it drops to 35, then only fills to 45. Then it slowly drops lower and lower with each cycle before the well pump turns on, and then only filling up approximately 10 PSI. Eventually getting to zero.
That is the issue, Assuming the new switch is good, the well pump does not always kick on at 40 PSI. The switch will constantly be closed so it should be running the well pump in theory. Every few minutes the well pump will kick on and fill the tank, but only 8-10 PSI at a time. After returning home after three hours it was at 55 PSI. We left before it was at 60 so I cannot verify if it reached 60 PSI and slowly leaked. The PS was in the open position upon returning home.
I did call a professional to come and look at it, but with tomorrow being Sunday just want to make sure we are not going to cause further issues by using the toilet, sinks, etc.
That is the issue, Assuming the new switch is good, the well pump does not always kick on at 40 PSI. The switch will constantly be closed so it should be running the well pump in theory. Every few minutes the well pump will kick on and fill the tank, but only 8-10 PSI at a time. After returning home after three hours it was at 55 PSI. We left before it was at 60 so I cannot verify if it reached 60 PSI and slowly leaked. The PS was in the open position.
Initial issue - in the shower and water pressure stops. Jump out check breaker, pipes for leaks, etc. I did not look at the pressure tank at this time. Go back to the shower, water pressure is back. Go back and check the tank at this time, at 60 PSI.
Starting with the cheapest thing I replaced the pressure switch. Drained the tank, installed new PS, apply 38 PSI to the air valve on the tank. I used an air compressor, based on a video, but was told that could be too much after a friend came over to help. was running around 80-90 PSI in the air compressor lines, did not over pressurize the tank went slow and stopped at 39 via tire pressure gauge on the tank valve. Just trying to add as many details as I can. I went through this twice to make sure I didn't do this incorrectly, 2nd time with only 40PSI in the air compressor lines. The water pressure line gauge reads about 3 PSI lower than what the tire pressure gauge reads on the valve of the tank.
there is a faucet before the tank, connected a hose and it had steady pressure for as long as we wanted, valve shut off going into the pressure tank. Good pressure for what we expected, water shot easily 20-25 ft flat. Our attempt as crossing off the pump as a culprit, but understand it could still be a problem.
On the 2nd tank pressurizing before opening the valve from the well pump, I opened the faucet that is directly below the PS to see if there was maybe a pin hole in the bladder, after it was at 38 PSI. Could not hear any leaking, but it did push out what we assumed was the rest of the water, with some particles. I have no pre-filter. I replaced a very old (50 years at least) water heater that had a lot of rust/debris in it and figured it was similar case. It held pressure for 5 minutes, then we proceeded to turn power back on to the well pump and opened the valves to the tank and house. Valves before and after the pressure switch faucet. I understand now I should have waited maybe 15 minutes and not 5.
It will cycle normally one or two times, turning on immediately at 38psi at start, filling to 60, then dropping to 40 with the bath running and kicking back on. Then on the next cycle it drops to 35, then only fills to 45. Then it slowly drops lower and lower with each cycle before the well pump turns on, and then only filling up approximately 10 PSI. Eventually getting to zero.
That is the issue, Assuming the new switch is good, the well pump does not always kick on at 40 PSI. The switch will constantly be closed so it should be running the well pump in theory. Every few minutes the well pump will kick on and fill the tank, but only 8-10 PSI at a time. After returning home after three hours it was at 55 PSI. We left before it was at 60 so I cannot verify if it reached 60 PSI and slowly leaked. The PS was in the open position upon returning home.
I did call a professional to come and look at it, but with tomorrow being Sunday just want to make sure we are not going to cause further issues by using the toilet, sinks, etc.
