Pressure switch and freezing pipes

[Qwertyjjj]

I just replaced my old pressure tank.
Both switches were set to 30/50 psi.
On the old one, there was a little manual lever that you had to use anytime the pressure dropped below 20 where the switch would turn off completely.
This was useful on the off chance that the pipes froze, which they did once when the heat tape around the pipe buried 6ft below the ground froze on a very cold week.
The PSI drops to 0, and the switch doesn't power the pump any more until someone pushes the lever to manually provide power to the pump until it gets > 20 psi at which point the switch takes over.

On the current new switch, it just powers on automatically even when PSI is at zero like it is when the tank is empty and you want to fill it.
Isn't this dangerous for the pump?
If the line freezes again, water will not get through to the tank and the switch will constantly power the pump to try and get water therefore burning out the well pump.
Edit:
Some more questions
1. Is it ok to use those plastic connectors with barbs and threads into the T pipe? That's also what the hardware store gave me but I've since read about PVC connectors cracking. This is only holding cold water.
2. Can I buy a 20/40 with low pressure and adjust it up to 35/50? The only ones with switch here are 20/40
3. The pressure tank is creaking when it gets up to 55PSI - is that normal? Air preset is at 28PSI.
4. Lastly ( ) - the horizontal pipe where it joins the 90 degree elbow before going into the tank is leaking a bit. The hardware store guy tightened this for me with a wrench but maybe he didn't add enough wraps of PTFE? Just guessing. I don't think I would be able to tighten this more especially not 1 full turn to get it all facing the right way again. Will I have to disconnect all of it now?

 

[Reach4]

On the current new switch, it just powers on automatically even when PSI is at zero like it is when the tank is empty and you want to fill it.
Isn't this dangerous for the pump?

Yes. A new Water Pressure Switchwith Low Pressure Cut Off is not expensive, but I am sure you are kicking yourself for not getting that in the first place.Most people don't have a pressure switch with such a cutoff.

They are not perfect protection either. There is a possibility that the pump turns on because the pressure dropped to 30, but you stopped using water right then. The precharge could be holding the pressure to 29. Slim possibility, but much more probable than winning the lottery.

I expect that what froze was not 6 ft under. You might want to consider getting your water-carrying pipes below the frost line. This could involve adding a pitless adapter if you don't have one, or building up the surface level if the dirt coverage is not enough.

 

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[Qwertyjjj]

Yes. A new Water Pressure Switchwith Low Pressure Cut Off is not expensive, but I am sure you are kicking yourself for not getting that in the first place.Most people don't have a pressure switch with such a cutoff.

They are not perfect protection either. There is a possibility that the pump turns on because the pressure dropped to 30, but you stopped using water right then. The precharge could be holding the pressure to 29. Slim possibility, but much more probable than winning the lottery.

I expect that what froze was not 6 ft under. You might want to consider getting your water-carrying pipes below the frost line. This could involve adding a pitless adapter if you don't have one, or building up the surface level if the dirt coverage is not enough.

Ok a few more questions:
1. Is it ok to use those plastic connectors with barbs and threads into the T pipe? That's also what the hardware store gave me but I've since read about PVC connectors cracking. This is only holding cold water.
2. Can I buy a 20/40 with low pressure and adjust it up to 35/50? The only ones with switch here are 20/40
3. The pressure tank is creaking when it gets up to 55PSI - is that normal? Air preset is at 28PSI.
4. Lastly ( ) - the horizontal pipe where it joins the 90 degree elbow before going into the tank is leaking a bit. The hardware store guy tightened this for me with a wrench but maybe he didn't add enough wraps of PTFE? Just guessing. I don't think I would be able to tighten this more especially not 1 full turn to get it all facing the right way again. Will I have to disconnect all of it now?

 

[Qwertyjjj]

Can't figure out if it's the sweat from the tank dripping or a leak in the pipes.
Presumably if it was humidity, it would stop dripping after a few hours?

 

[Terry]

I think it's coming from the threads.
Tape and dope should fix it. Assuming it's not a porous cast brass fitting.

 

[Reach4]

As a test, maybe wrap a cotton cloth (sock etc) around the fitting. Does the cloth get wet, or do dew drops keep appearing?

 

[Craigpump]

Lead free brass is harder than the brass used before 2014, so you need tape & pipe dope to get the best seal.

Throw those pvc fittings away and get brass.

Your clamps aren't oriented correctly, turn one around so it draws from the other direction.

Where's the pressure relief valve?

 

[Qwertyjjj]

Lead free brass is harder than the brass used before 2014, so you need tape & pipe dope to get the best seal.

Throw those pvc fittings away and get brass.

Your clamps aren't oriented correctly, turn one around so it draws from the other direction.

Where's the pressure relief valve?

I changed the clamps and added a valve but those pictures are a week old.
Won't the PVC ones last a good while?

 

[Craigpump]

They might, but they might not.

There's a reason we only use brass fittings, they don't break & the poly doesn't blow off.

 

[Qwertyjjj]

Been 1 hour, no drips since the cotton was round but every pipe has dew drops with a small trickle of water on tiles below. The same pipes were dry yesterday.

 

[Valveman]

Looks like condensation to me. Turn a fan on down there.

 

[Reach4]

I would get a humidity measuring device (hygrometer). They often come with a thermometer. They are also available with a remote that could go outside, but it could also go to the basement. http://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Humidity-and-Temperature-Monitor/16888914

I would also get a big dehumidifier. These take a fair amount of electricity. If you have variable electricity rates, you might want to put it on a timer to avoid running during the expensive time. Use a hose to run the water to a drain. You don't want to empty the bucket.

 

[Qwertyjjj]

Looks like condensation to me. Turn a fan on down there.

Tiles underneath the tank are very damp.
Even if it's just condensation is doesn't seem workable to have it in that room with wood and drywall planned.
Could use one of those big plastic trays for water heaters?
There's no way to install an extractor fan as entire room is concrete apart from the doorway.

 

[Valveman]

Concrete room with cold pipes running through it is the same problem I have with concrete vaults underground. Even a dehumidifier would need to be able to drain away the water. Maybe you could put an exhaust fan in the top of the door and a inlet grate in the bottom of the door. Even one water pipe in that room is enough to cause condensation.

 

[Reach4]

Tiles underneath the tank are very damp.
Even if it's just condensation is doesn't seem workable to have it in that room with wood and drywall planned.
Could use one of those big plastic trays for water heaters?

You could use a big drain pan. The pipes and pressure tank are not producing the moisture; they are only condensing the moisture. You don't want drywall in that room.

 

[Qwertyjjj]

You could use a big drain pan. The pipes and pressure tank are not producing the moisture; they are only condensing the moisture. You don't want drywall in that room.

Had drywall before and all around the old tank it had black mold. Everything has been ripped out as we want to redo the room. Wood won't be much better though will it? Paneling or the studs behind still susceptible to water.

Dehumidifier plus condensate pump will be as much as relocating the tank outside with a heater.

Even a CSV valve will have condensate on all the pipes like it is now.

Drain pan like for a car or for a water heater? Still have to remove the water somehow

 

[Reach4]

Cement board will survive moisture. I would think any framing wood should be pressure treated, and I don't know about the rest of it.

Moving the tank outside will not reduce the humidity in the basement. The tank will survive the humidity for a good while. It is all of the other things that you do in the basement that will have a problem with the high humidity. You want that basement humidity under 60%. You can supplement the dehumidifier with a big fan to help blow the humid air around so it circulate by the dehumidifier.

Do you have a sump and pump? If not, you want to consider that if you ever get seepage. That can be complicated or relatively simple depending... A sump can also be a place to drain condensate from the dehumidifier.

You might want to consider spending the big bucks to get a professional waterproofing from people who get good results in your area. It is usually not wise to borrow money for a car ( a car beyond the minimum is an expense -- not an investment). An effective basement waterproofing is an investment.

 

[Craigpump]

Drain pans are useless once they get full.

 

[Qwertyjjj]

Drain pan plus condensate pump to the kitchen sink or fan/dehumidifier.
I'll leave the tank to warm up to room temp and see if the dew drops stop.

 

[Craigpump]

How about a brass ( NOT galvanized) nipple between the pressure switch and tank T?