Pressure Relief Valve Issue??? Problem???

Users who are viewing this thread

B-K

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Florida
Hello, this is my 1st post here. I need some help. I don't know much about water heaters and my plumbing knowledge is ultra basic... like, cro mag level.
I have what I believe may be a problem with a brand new water heater that was installed a few weeks ago. Possibly a serious/dangerous issue. I haven't been using it and have had it turned off for the last couple of weeks.
The person who installed this water heater did what appears to be an incorrect line hookup with the pressure relief valve. instead of using copper (or metal) pipe, they hooked it up with a dishwasher hose.

Everything I've researched so far is leaning in the direction that doing this is not good. If this valve needs to pop off some pressure I'm thinking this could be a disaster waiting to happen but, I'm not sure.
I've attached a couple of pics.
Can you experienced folks please tell me if this is O.K and I'm worrying about nothing or if I really do have a problem (possibly a serious one) waiting to happen and need to have this fixed properly.
Thanks
wronghotwateremercencyconnect.jpg
dishwashhoseonheater.jpg
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
While there are hoses designed for use with WH, those should not be there for several reasons: they probably will not survive the heat right there, and they are 3/8", which will severely restrict the flow to the whole house's hot water supply. There are both flexible and corrugated copper or SS lines that could be used that are designed for use at a WH. Note, depending on where you live, some places require flexible lines (earthquake country), and others require rigid ones, and then some allow either.

The T&P (temperature and pressure) safety valve opening is a different issue. It MIGHT just be doing its job, especially since the WH is new. That valve can open for one of two reasons: the temperature exceeds about 210-degrees (something you'd really notice), or, if the pressure exceeds 150psi, which you might not. Water expands when it is heated, so depending on the makeup of your system, if it is what is called a 'closed' system, there's no place for that expanding water to go and the pressure will spike quickly, then exit via the T&P valve. The solution to that is an expansion tank, which is always a good idea, and in some places is required, whether the system is open or closed. There are a few things that can make a system closed: a check valve (often installed by the utility company) or a pressure reduction valve (PRV) that you might need if your pressure ever exceeds 80psi from the supply.
 

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
Messages
5,205
Reaction score
72
Points
48
Location
Houston, TX
Can you experienced folks please tell me if this is O.K and I'm worrying about nothing or if I really do have a problem (possibly a serious one) waiting to happen and need to have this fixed properly.
Thanks

It would not meet code.

Now I see why many places require a permit to replace a water heater.

Good Luck.
 

B-K

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Florida
O.K. seems this is definitely not a correct/safe solution for the pressure relief valve (hookup w/ a dishwasher hose). I'm not too thrilled with the other two hookups either (intake & out) but, at least those hoses do say they're for Hot Water Heaters but, that dishwasher hose made my mind go into "WTF" mode o_O
 

Smooky

In the Trades
Messages
2,299
Reaction score
152
Points
63
Location
North Carolina
The discharge piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof shall:

2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater, either on the floor, into an indirect waste receptor or outdoors.

3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap.

7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.

8. Not be trapped.

11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of such piping.

13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section 605.4 or materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1.
 
Last edited:

Dj2

In the Trades
Messages
2,611
Reaction score
258
Points
83
Location
California
Call the installer and ask him to correct it.
Have you paid him in full? Good luck hearing from him.
 

Flapper

Member
Messages
516
Reaction score
27
Points
18
Location
California
While there are hoses designed for use with WH, those should not be there for several reasons: they probably will not survive the heat right there, and they are 3/8", which will severely restrict the flow to the whole house's hot water supply. There are both flexible and corrugated copper or SS lines that could be used that are designed for use at a WH. Note, depending on where you live, some places require flexible lines (earthquake country), and others require rigid ones, and then some allow either.
The hoses connection the water heater are water heater hoses. The 3/8 hose is on the pressure relief valve.

It's not correct but I wouldn't worry about it, if the installer won't fix it.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Code REQUIRES that there be NO restrictions or 'necking down' of the path in the discharge line. While I suppose you could misread what I said about the use of hoses on a WH, what I meant was they should never be used on the discharge line. Leaving that 3/8" line on there, even if it was an approved material for a WH still does not pass code because of the restrictions. Any restriction there could keep the pressure up a bit if it were to overheat letting the water get even hotter. No inspector that knows anything would approve it, no home inspector would not flag it, and there are reasons why it is not safe...it may be a one in a million problem, but it is easy to fix, and is not worth arguing more on...there is only one right answer here, get rid of that hose and do it right!
 

Flapper

Member
Messages
516
Reaction score
27
Points
18
Location
California
Code REQUIRES that there be NO restrictions or 'necking down' of the path in the discharge line. While I suppose you could misread what I said about the use of hoses on a WH, what I meant was they should never be used on the discharge line. Leaving that 3/8" line on there, even if it was an approved material for a WH still does not pass code because of the restrictions. Any restriction there could keep the pressure up a bit if it were to overheat letting the water get even hotter. No inspector that knows anything would approve it, no home inspector would not flag it, and there are reasons why it is not safe...it may be a one in a million problem, but it is easy to fix, and is not worth arguing more on...there is only one right answer here, get rid of that hose and do it right!
I know it requires, that's why I said it's not right. But I wouldn't live without hot water because of it. He can live with it until it's fixed.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,600
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
quote; He can live with it until it's fixed

The problem with emergencies is that you CANNOT Schedule them. IF that valve had to discharge and the restriction caused additonal problems, he could DIE WITH IT, before its fixed. Disconnecting the hose from the T&P would be the safest answer, short term.
 

Flapper

Member
Messages
516
Reaction score
27
Points
18
Location
California
quote; He can live with it until it's fixed

The problem with emergencies is that you CANNOT Schedule them. IF that valve had to discharge and the restriction caused additonal problems, he could DIE WITH IT, before its fixed. Disconnecting the hose from the T&P would be the safest answer, short term.
He could die many other ways that are more likely, but yeah, he should disconnect the hose; should've mentioned that.
 

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
Messages
5,205
Reaction score
72
Points
48
Location
Houston, TX
Disconnecting the hose from the T&P would be the safest answer, short term.

I would disconnect it also.

That line going thru the wall may go to the ice maker that is not working. :eek:
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,726
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
DonL, my thoughts exactly. For one, any minimal trained plumber would never put a 3/8 hose on a T&P valve. Two, is what in the world is it connected too? Three, where did this installer come from? Four, Florida is not in a earthquake zone of any kind, but there are sinkhole areas of the state.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks