Pressure relief valve for boiler system is leaking

[MaxBlack]

System is 12 years old and to my knowledge the relief valve has not been exercised per recommended "every two months", so when I opened the lever to release some water, it didn't seal again properly "of course". Thankfully the Apollo 10407 30PSI valve has only been drip-drip-dripping so I'm waiting now for the end of the heating season to deal with a possible replacement.

In the meantime, are there techniques for opening the valve that might clear debris better than others? I believe the normal approach is to open it, allow a rush of water, and then let it snap shut quickly rather than slowly close it.

I wonder, might also ROTATING the lever while it's open help, or do I risk debrading the seal such that it can never completely shut-off again?

Oh, I should add that unlike the other thread here, my pressure is at prescribed 15-20lbs so I don't believe the valve is actually operating to relieve water pressure...

 

[JohnCT]

I always snapped mine closed and often rotated the lever trying to get the seal to seat, but whether rotation actually helps or if it was just several more snaps that got it to seat I can't say. I've also tried just barely opening it hoping the pressure would "wash" the seat.

But if your pressure is below 20lbs it's just a typical leaking/dripping PRV. Even if you get it to stop, replace it when the heating season ends.

John

 

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[Sylvan]

Many of the older boilers I inspected (60 + years) had the original parts.

When testing a safety or relief valve, they would discharge either small amounts of steam or water.

I would stand away, and I pulled the lever or chain, then let the valve reset.

If it did not reset, I would stop the leak until a replacement was available within 48 hrs

This is NOT suggested.

Gently tap the top of the valve with a hammer to force it to stop by forcing it to reseat until a replacement is installed ASAP

This is only to allow the heating to remain on for a day or 2 until the valve is replaced

 

[MaxBlack]

Thanks fellas. I'd been especially concerned about replacing the valve when I thought it had a female inlet and a very short M-M nipple to the boiler's female connection--I was not even sure I could get the bloody things apart given the mineral deposits and corrosion, much less get it together again w/no leaks. Now I've realize the valve's inlet is male and I believe I can get that off and a new one put on again without too much trouble.

But I will do so when the heating season is over at this point! A new valve is on order!

This bad boy. Way cheaper than the $125 one I saw at Menards:

 

[Fitter30]

Fresh water entering the system is bad for the boiler and system by adding O2 into the system that the air device has to remove. Also suggest adding a qt of boiler treatment when changing the relief. Other places sell it.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChsSEwjAhMjQ9o6TAxWYcX8AHdMIAVgYACICCAEQARoCb2E&co=1&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAtq_NBhA_EiwA78nNWKXJgBvm0pHNV9gzq_yxctUBiMUWmnu5gNwC4pxEwYnn-cPT3qUTChoCazUQAvD_BwE&cid=CAASugHkaCugD0ZgYj_2QEJ6Ajmf1S4Mbo6sEY6D0__6jNM9JVmyFy2BSw2Hbd_RhW-hPoUV5sUTyCdUS8ytuIuiMPvw524ehOD2db_oDpKFo9-ZgqzU60cl1wuaX2A634u5nPZgC2GQ4-rxoExBftjkdJHbydb0J7LqnndW1y_e0AQftV8yoEKX00MlQm-XLme1QPeLxoHht2ft53WZ5uxsHxKejmXccE4EqatZnjQI0E3xjowfskPdjC8YIrA&cce=2&category=acrcp_v1_32&sig=AOD64_370BwZ3NuXnr0IQgpE9xuTlxki7A&ctype=5&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwiu2sDQ9o6TAxWk8MkDHfinMUgQwg8oAHoECCUQBg&adurl=

 

[MaxBlack]

Fresh water entering the system is bad for the boiler....

I've got it down to a very small amount of dripping (maybe a cup a day), and while we do have oxygen in our water supply the bleed valve has been working perfectly so no problems there. Also, the boiler is fed soft water, the output from the relief valve is clean as a whistle, and the manufacturer does not recommend chemicals of any kind so I ain't gonna do that.

I'll replace the valve before another 30 days is up most probably.

 

[Sylvan]

I've got it down to a very small amount of dripping (maybe a cup a day), and while we do have oxygen in our water supply the bleed valve has been working perfectly so no problems there. Also, the boiler is fed soft water, the output from the relief valve is clean as a whistle, and the manufacturer does not recommend chemicals of any kind so I ain't gonna do that.

I'll replace the valve before another 30 days is up most probably.

I have a hydronic system, original piping black steel installed around 1921.

The system was drained down numerous times over the past 100 + years, and NEVER have chemicals been added

I have seen too many systems having problems when chemicals were added, like sludge blocking safety devices or air vents.

Unless you're on well water or water that actually requires treatment, I would refrain from using it.

Hot water systems, unlike steam do not usually need chemicals, as once the system is filled, it can last decades without having anything done as far as treatment

 

[JohnCT]

Hot water systems, unlike steam do not usually need chemicals, as once the system is filled, it can last decades without having anything done as far as treatment

My understanding is that even water with ph issues will eventually neutralize if left in a sealed system with no new fresh water added - is that true?

John

 

[Sylvan]

My understanding is that even water with ph issues will eventually neutralize if left in a sealed system with no new fresh water added - is that true?

John

John, I installed standpipes and all the piping required for sprinklers, and we test them yearly, but never drain the entire system down. Could you imagine the time required to bleed out all the air ?