Pressure Reducing Valve replacement

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stock

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I checked pressure in the garden faucet and it was 100+. Did a bit of search and realized it could be PRV. Here's a pic of PRV (also attached to thread).
I have done very basic plumbing work myself around the house. I am able to shutoff water from the city and the valve is located just before PRV. I am looking for advice on how to and if this is something I should handle myself. Also, which PRV should I buy, I see a couple of different types on lowes.com.
Is this the same?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-1-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3132425?
This one does not look like the same to me, but just want to throw in here to see if I am wrong:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-1-in-Bronze-Sweat-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3132427

Thanks

PRV_IMG_3345.JPG
 
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Gary Swart

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It's a PRV. If you were shopping for a new car and your found a car that didn't look exactly like your old one, wouldn't you still believe it was a car? Next thing, do you have a thermal expansion tank? That goes hand and hand with a PRV, but when I bought my PRV from Lowe's they not only didn't have one, they had never even heard of one. Went to HD and took my pick of sizes.

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Themp

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On that tag attached to the top of PRV should be the model number. It looks like a Wilkins 34-70XL. If you can get the same model then it will swap out easier than a different model or make. Google your model number. My local plumbing supply houses and big box stores only stock a cheaper version of PRVs now and most are setup to connect to PEX. All can be made to work but as stated an exact replacement makes the job much easier. You can re-use the union nut on the right side and use the new rubber washer that comes with the new PRV.
 

Cwhyu2

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Check the number on the tag.I install Watts 25AUB PRVs do not really care for Wilkins.
Not really hard to do if your handy.
 

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It's a PRV. If you were shopping for a new car and your found a car that didn't look exactly like your old one, wouldn't you still believe it was a car? Next thing, do you have a thermal expansion tank? That goes hand and hand with a PRV, but when I bought my PRV from Lowe's they not only didn't have one, they had never even heard of one. Went to HD and took my pick of sizes.
I don't think I have one. There is nothing next to my water heater and never heard the term from any handyman/plumber who has worked on the house.
 

Reach4

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I don't think I have one. There is nothing next to my water heater and never heard the term from any handyman/plumber who has worked on the house.
It's good Gary brought that to your attention. So add that to your to-do list. There are calculators to help size the units so that you get one that is big enough. They take into account the size of the water heater and the temperature rise that your water heater needs to do.

If you dribble water from a faucet, the pressure your see is what your PRV is regulating to. If you turn off the faucet and don't use hot water, the PRV can leak and let the pressure rise all by itself. If the pressure only rises up after you use hot water (such as a shower) and stop using hot water, the water heater will expand the water and make the pressure increase. The thermal expansion tank takes care of that, and it can also deal with a tiny amount of PRV leakage for a while.
 

Gary Swart

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You're not the only person who has come to the forum with no knowledge of thermal expansion. Here's a primer on what it's about. When water heats, it expands, it does not compress. If there is no check valve between the water heater and the city water main, this expansion, which is really a fairly small amount of water, is easily absorbed by the main line. This describes what is termed an "open system". Now enter the PRV. Most PRVs contain a check valve to prevent water from the home returning to the main line. This creates a "closed system". Clever use of terms eh. So now when the water heater kicks on and does its job, that expansion has no place to go. Some times, it may find a toilet valve that will leak under the added pressure. Most often however, it will cause the T/P valve on the water heater to open and allow that cup or two of expansion a place to go. That is part of the reason you have a T/P valve, but it is not intended to have to open and close every time the water heater operates. OK, now enter the thermal expansion tank. This is a cylinder that is air charged to match the PRV setting. This tank is installed in the cold water intake line between the PRV and water heater. The expanded water goes into the tank, is held there until the pressure lessens and the water is then released back into the pipe.
 

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So many things to learn here. Thanks Gary, rech4, cywhu, themp. This place is great. I think I will be hanging out here more often just to learn and do some minor DIY projects.
Thanks for giving me a good explanation for the Thermal Expansion Tank. I have a feeling now my water pressure is so much that I do not see the difference after using the hot water. Will keep this in my mind after I get a new PRV installed and my pressure under 70. Right now it's close to 110 constant.

Another quick question, what's the difference between these two:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-3-4-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3134059
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-3-4-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3134071

Also, is my PRV 3/4 inch if the water supply pipe from the main is 3/4" ?
 

Dj2

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So many things to learn here. Thanks Gary, rech4, cywhu, themp. This place is great. I think I will be hanging out here more often just to learn and do some minor DIY projects.
Thanks for giving me a good explanation for the Thermal Expansion Tank. I have a feeling now my water pressure is so much that I do not see the difference after using the hot water. Will keep this in my mind after I get a new PRV installed and my pressure under 70. Right now it's close to 110 constant.

Another quick question, what's the difference between these two:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-3-4-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3134059
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-3-4-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3134071

Also, is my PRV 3/4 inch if the water supply pipe from the main is 3/4" ?

One has all brass construction and the other has diaphragm plastic housing. For high pressure street pressure in some areas of L.A, stay with all brass.

If your main supply line is 3/4", you most likely, but not necessarily, have a 3/4" PRV.
 

Themp

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This one you linked has a "Built-in bypass prevents buildup of excessive system pressure caused by thermal expansion" But this feature dumps pressure back to your city supply when it exceeds the city pressure. In your case, it would be 110 PSI. I guess this is better than not having an expansion tank, but in reality an expansion tank keeps the pressure in the range of what your PRV is set at. I would get a PRV that does not have this feature and install an expansion tank with the money saved on the PRV. For 20 years at least I had a PRV with no expansion tank and one day my son who had moved down to the downstairs bedroom with bath said that during the night the toilet would make a swooshing sound periodically. I finally figured out that the toilet valve was releasing the excess pressure from the water heater heating and expansion. I installed an expansion tank after this episode and no more swooshing.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wilkins-3-4-in-Bronze-Female-In-Line-Pressure-Reducing-Valve/3134059
 
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