Pressure Reducer Valve - replace or rebuild?

[ChrisMc]

I have a Zurn NR3XL pressure regulator at the 10 year mark. Right on time (it seems every 10 years I need to get it replaced) my trusty pressure gauge shows 83psi hooked up to an outside faucet. The metal tag on the PRV shows it has a range of 45-75.

Q1.) I assume the inside guts either need replaced or just replace the entire valve. Any thoughts on which direction to go? I change the rubber gaskets and springs of my old Eljer faucets, and replaced my disposer, but am unsure if I should tackle the rebuild. I'd have a plumber in for a replacement.

Q2.) Also, how do I know what "size" it is (ie, I need a rebuild kit for a certain "size?")? I may be missing it, but don't see anything like that on the metal tag. And

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Q2.) Also, how do I know what "size" it is (ie, I need a rebuild kit for a certain "size?")? I may be missing it, but don't see anything like that on the metal tag. And

Look at the side of the casting. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Zurn-34-NR3XL-1-1-2-Water-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-Union-FNPT shows a 3/4 inch. I don't know why it looks like I 3/4 or 1 3/4.

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[Fitter30]

Was it installed with a union or 2? Easier to rebuild on the ground especially with a vise. Probably a you tube video showing what's involved.

 

[Breplum]

the id for size is always on the valve body. maybe 1 could be hard to interpret, but 3/4 is easier.
I have rebuilt that model twice, in larger sizes and in both cases, with caring attention paid, the valve did not reduce pressure, so in the end replaced.
I always buy the double union models now, so swap out is easy. Not so easy with single union only.

 

[ChrisMc]

Looks like 3/4...
How would I know if it's single union or two?

And joy... it is "on its side." Water enter the house from below (you can see the inside turn off [yellow
lever] to the lower-right of the valve in the background), and feeds the house from the line going
out the top.

I've lived here 26 years and had it replaced twice, and the internals replaced once.

 

[ChrisMc]

I have rebuilt that model twice, in larger sizes and in both cases, with caring attention paid, the valve did not reduce pressure, so in the end replaced.

Looking at some rebuild kit reviews, a few mentioned the same (they wound up replacing anyway). So I was wondering if it was worth it. Mind you, I assume these were DIYers.

 

[Breplum]

Double union it is ! The big nuts are the union nuts.
Just search EBAY and input: wilkins zurn nr3xl prv
look for 3/4" and $56. plus tax if applicable with free shipping.

 

[ChrisMc]

Double union it is ! The big nuts are the union nuts.
Just search EBAY and input: wilkins zurn nr3xl prv
look for 3/4" and $56. plus tax if applicable with free shipping.

I saw a video of someone replacing one of these and they mentioned it was important to get the gaskets/rubber o-rings that go into the connection at each union nut. I get the impression from some of the (eBay) listings that if I only order the PRV, I will only get the PRV and not the rubber o-rings.

Or are the gaskets/o-rings something unrelated I need to get from Home Depot?

Can you help me better understand this point?

Thanks!

 

[Breplum]

The gaskets do usually come with the valve, but if you don't get them, then a 'union kit' which has nuts and washers would have them. Just only buy one off EBAY unless there are two washers. Though, in many cases it could be possible to reuse the existing, I wouldn't waste time with that.

 

[ChrisMc]

Morning! I purchased a valve with gaskets and replaced it (eBay - seller stated they purchased the wrong valve).

The old valve was allowing over 80psi, and the new one is around 50 after the change. While the pressure gauge was still on the outside faucet, I turned on a sink inside. The psi dropped to around 45. I turned the sink off again, and left the pressure gauge for 10 minutes and found it had crept up to around 60psi.

The instructions said to clean and re-test the valve (remove the cartridge inside, do an inspection and look for visible damage to the o-rings, diaphragm, seal ring, seat, and debris in the screen).

What's unclear from the instructions is if there's no visible damage found, or debris, and there's still creep, then what? Repair or replace the valve again?

 

[John Gayewski]

Morning! I purchased a valve with gaskets and replaced it (eBay - seller stated they purchased the wrong valve).

The old valve was allowing over 80psi, and the new one is around 50 after the change. While the pressure gauge was still on the outside faucet, I turned on a sink inside. The psi dropped to around 45. I turned the sink off again, and left the pressure gauge for 10 minutes and found it had crept up to around 60psi.

The instructions said to clean and re-test the valve (remove the cartridge inside, do an inspection and look for visible damage to the o-rings, diaphragm, seal ring, seat, and debris in the screen).

What's unclear from the instructions is if there's no visible damage found, or debris, and there's still creep, then what? Repair or replace the valve again?

If your only creeping to 60 what's the problem? How do you know your water heater isn't causing some creep?

A prv closes your system off from the city system. If it's failing to close all the way it will creep up to city pressure. I didn't read this thread up until this last post of yours. But pressure in any system isn't a pure constant. Just staying below 80 and above 40 or 50 is usually gonna be more than sufficient.

 

[ChrisMc]

@ JohnG. You're probably correct. Today, I checked it again and it showed 60 with no faucets running. I went back 2 hours later and re-checked it was 50. I opened a faucet and it remained 50. I waited 10 minutes and it still showed 50. Appreciate your response and additional info!