As I understand it, the production of H2S in the water heater needs sulfate, SRB bacteria, and some metal ions such as magnesium. Sanitizing your well and plumbing should be able to knock down SRB for a while, and I think the duration is largely due to how effective the sanitizing is.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my writeup. Summer is a nice time to sanitize vs winter. It is more intensive than what is usually done. Including sanitizing the WH is important IMO, and since that has a lot of water in it, not everybody treats the WH enough.
Another way to reduce H2S production is to raise the WH temperature to 140F or more. That won't totally eliminate SRB action, but it will make the bulk of the WH not conducive to growing SRB.
I like the premium-priced Ceranode unit, because it has the longer electrode. I have the Ceranode unit, although I am not certain I need it. I probably do. While my sanitizing has lasted for a few years, SRB may have made it in from the aquifer. While it is slow growing, it probably exists in the aquifer.
If you can afford it, I would prefer a long-anode Ceranode powered anode.
https://www.waterconnection.com/shop-anode-rods/ is a source. Seems to be out of stock. I hope that is temporary.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/about-new-water-heater-no-rotten-egg-smell.77342/#post-571874
discusses my skepticism of stubby anodes, especially in highboy water heaters. That said, some people replace the sacrificial anode with a plug, to inhibit H2S production. A stubby anode has to be much better than that. "Aluminum" (actually aluminum+zinc) anode rods don't feed the SRB as much, but they don't stop the growth. The worn out anode is not going to support the SRB as much as an aluminum rod, but it does not protect the WH.
I am not a pro. My methods are slower than would work for a pro because I work cheaply for myself.
One more thing. Removing the anode on a new tank water heater can be hard, but on an old one usually requires a non-small impact wrench with a 1-1/16 inch impact socket if you have a hex head for your anode. Some WHs have the anode under the hot nipple. I have no experience with those. They may be easier with the right pipe wrench. You will find people discussing that.
