Plumbing update

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Matt Chesmore

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Hello all,

My wife and I recently purchased a 1964 home, plumbed with all copper. I great variety of mixed sizes, 3/4" down to 3/8". I am on a well system with a non-bladder pressure tank, looks like it would hold 100 gals of water but I'm sure it doesn't.
We are in the beginning of remodeling creating a new guest bath/laundry. I drained the house down to add additional fixtures, when finished I turned the pump back on and all was fine. I had to drain the house down again but this time I though I was being smart and shut off the gate valve to the pressure tank so that it did not have to fill again.
Again finished what I was doing and turned the pump back on. Now I'm getting air out of the cold water side all the time. When left for something maybe like a half hour, the faucet closest to the tank will blow a glass out of your hand. The pressure switch cuts in and off as it should 40/60.

BTY, I am re-plumbing the entire ranch home as the furnace and water heater locations are changing and it appears like every sweat joint is turning green, maybe a slight leak?
Plus cold water has to travel the length of the home to get to the hot water tank, then hot water has the same journey back to get to the kitchen faucet. So trying to centrally locate the furnace, water heater, and manifold.

In 2007 I built a home for us and have been a carpenter for 20+ years, so I'm very comfy working with my hands. Possibly my biggest mistake was wanting to move to the country and selling the home we designed and built. The positive was that we made some money selling and have a pretty descent budget for this remodel project.

Any ideas why I'm getting the air? Logically I have to be pumping air in somehow, but I'm not sure if a waterlogged pressure tank could do this. So possible drain the tank again and start over? I hope it's not in the well supply as it runs under 12' of house. And if in the well plumbing itself will require call a well tech in I suppose.
 

Matt Chesmore

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Thanks for the reply. Following your link it looks like I might have a issue with one or more of several things. But I am eliminating the old pressure tank and installing a a CVS with a bladder tank.
Looks like I'm pulling the well to eliminate the air bleeder valve at minimum. CRAP. Any DYI tips on pulling a well? I seen it done a few times but never tried it myself. Or should I just leave that to the pros?
 

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Hmm, now I'm not sure. My tank only has one line in and doesn't appear to have that AVC you mentioned. the system does have a check valve before the tank, but no valve. The tank tee (manifold) has a schrader valve on it just before it goes int to tank. Here's a couple a pics. I assume the AVC would be where the middle plug is? So what do you think know this?
 

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Reach4

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Yes, from what I understand, the AVC is normally on the side. I have not actually seen one. Is there something on the top of the tank? I know there is a fiberglass tank that has its AVC on top. Maybe some galvanized tanks do too.

I don't see the Schrader valve. A galvanized "standard" tank system like this would have a valve that looks like a Schrader valve, but it allows air to enter when there is a vacuum. The vacuum occurs when an orifice maybe 5 ft down the well lets water leak out, and air gets sucked in. Then the air gets pushed into the tank the next time the pump starts. The valve is called a snifter valve.

But the excess air has to be removed by the AVC. The reason that air gets added is that air will dissolve in the water, so the disolved air has to be replaced. Click Inbox above.

I wonder if you could slow the introduction of air by putting a plastic valve cap over the snifter valve to limit new air coming in. The symptom of not enough air is short cycling.
 

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Here is a pic of the schrader valve. And the top is just plugged like the side.
 

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Reach4

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Interesting. That is on the wrong side of the check valve to be a snifter valve. I wonder if this was to add air manually only when needed.

Then where is the air coming from? a leak in the downpipe?
 

Matt Chesmore

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And theirs my luck again. Got my CVS system installed and wouldn't you know it, as soon as the pump kicks of I lose pressure. I can isolate the pressure loss to some where between the CVS and the pump. So I predicting its the bleeder valve(orifice) in the casing, Or I suppose it could be the check valve on the pump. Looks like I'm pull a well, yea for me.
 
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