Plumbing Newbie Q - Permanent pipe compound for securing spigots??

[holmburgers]

Hello All,

I am a newbie when it comes to plumbing and currently in the process of building a darkroom. I am hoping the collective knowledge of this forum can help answer my (hopefully) simple question.

I have attached a photograph of the fittings in question. The wall-mount fixture on the right needs to be oriented in a specific direction in relation to my darkroom sink; this will be firmly secured in wood. Then, the spigot needs to be oriented so that it points down and in the right direction for use.

The issue I'm having is that with thread-sealant tape, the natural position at which the spigot stops turning in the threads does not give me the orientation I need.

What I would like is some kind of pipe compound that FIRMLY SECURES the position of the fixtures at a point where the spigot is rotated and oriented where I need it; not where the thread-cutting machine determines it should be...

Is there such a product that creates a water-tight seal and firmly dries and hardens to ensure a rock-solid joint between these two fixtures? I am completely fine with this being a "permanent" installation.

How do professionals deal with such situations? For instance if you were installing a hose outside of your house, you'd want the wall-mount fixture mounted upright and of course for the spigot to point downward; but what if the threads don't agree?!

What products are designed for this kind of application? Are there any suitable "hacks"? (i.e. epoxy, polyurethane glue, etc.)

The spigot, once secured, needs to stand up to the rigors of daily use and therefore whatever adhesive/caulking compound used really needs to be extremely strong, hard and permanent.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Chris

p.s. To complicate matters, I am in Austria and the same products might not exist here as they do in the US. But if I know some prominent brands or products then perhaps I can find them online, etc.

 

[MKS]

Just wags.
A plumber would likely use a combination of tape and paste.
Then using experience would tighten appropriately for orientation. Not till it stops.
You may have a look at unions as they allow for any orientation. Might not look as nice.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Treeman]

Would an anaerobic adhesive thread locker work such as Loctite? Also Google "hard set thread sealant".

Maybe these: https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/seal-lock/

https://www.alliedelectronics.com//PDF/Gasoila/hard-set thread sealants.pdf

https://www.gluegun.com/products/vi...MIibOojtL03QIVnrXACh28NwRbEAQYBCABEgKs1vD_BwE

 

[holmburgers]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the input.

Treeman, these products look promising. I'm particularly interested in the Permatex Seal & Lock.

So I take it this is not a common thing that plumbers deal with?? I guess I am doing SOMETHING wrong... haha

I'm not sure if I can get a tight enough hold with tape alone, or do I need to experiment with how many windings of tape are needed until it tightens at the right spot?

Unless anyone strongly objects to a product like the Permatex Seal & Lock, I will try to find something like that and use it.

Thanks again,

Chris

 

[holmburgers]

I found two good products that are available in German/Austria.

Both appear to be anaerobic setting thread-sealants and -locks; similar to offerings from Loc-Tite and Permatex. They are suitable for sealing drinking water systems and appear to be strong-holding thread lockers as well. One of the product states "hemp substitute" and has a disassembly strength of 28-36 Nm. (will this be very strong and suitable for long-duty use?)

First is Fermitan Drinking Water
-> https://www.fermit.de/en/products/s...ls/fermitan-service-water-drinking-water.html

Second is MICROTEC FIXDICHT TEC-500
-> https://www.microtec-gt.de/dichtmittel/fixdicht-produktübersicht/

I appreciate the help from this forum and hopefully someone else might find this information useful in the future.

 

[Reach4]

I'm not sure if I can get a tight enough hold with tape alone, or do I need to experiment with how many windings of tape are needed until it tightens at the right spot?

That works. Also a plumber might have to apply a high torque to get that next 355 degree turn. Also consider using a higher grade of PTFE tape (one with a density greater than 1). The cheap stuff will not sink in water, even after you get the bubbles off. The yellow tape labeled to allow use on gas would be higher density. I am not a plumber.

 

[Kreemoweet]

If the threads are cut properly, there is no definite point where the fittings get "tight", there is always a range of acceptable (i.e. leak-free) positions.
Plumbers NEVER "glue" threaded fittings together. In fact, the usual sort of threadlocker compounds should never be used
on tapered pipe fittings. The heat and pressure that develops while tightening will cause the threadlocker to set up almost instantly, and the
parts will seize up at that point, which will almost certainly not be where you want it.

 

[holmburgers]

Hi Reach4 and kreemoweet... very interesting thoughts.

Perhaps it is as simple as getting a big wrench, wrapping the spigot in a cloth and giving it that extra umph to get it where I need it, with tape.

Also, a compelling thought that the heat build-up of such a tight winding would set the thread-lock too soon...

I'm all ears and haven't committed yet....

gonna sleep on it...

(-:

 

[Jadnashua]

Typically, once a tapered pipe connection reaches a point where it is water tight, you can still turn it close to another turn. If using PTFE tape, adding another wrap or two can give you a little flexibility on where it tighten down. You might even be able to use more wraps, but make sure you can get enough turns to make it secure as well.

 

[Reach4]

https://www.rectorseal.com/pipe-thread-sealants/ Rectorseal No. 5 is slow drying. It is not one to lock things permanently, but it can be used together with PTFE tape.

Yes, two big wrenches can give you considerable turning power.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, PTFE tape may require you to tighten it a bit more than you would with pipe dope since it is quite slippery...consider the material. If the threads are cut to spec, you won't be able to bottom it out, so a bit more torque should work to get it where you want it.