Plumbing in a ventless Washer/Dryer All-in-One

[WeekendPlumber]

Hey folks, long-time lurker first-time poster here.

I recently bought a townhouse style unit in Boston from a flipper who really liked to take the easy way out if you know what I mean. I am discovering all sorts of fun surprises, haha.

Anyway, I want to install a Ventless All-in-One Washer/Dryer unit on our second floor in what used to be a linen closet. The concern I am having obviously involves the plumbing.

My questions are: 1) Will I have any issues running some PEX from the vanity through the attic over to the washer? It is a fairly short run and the PEX will be well insulated but should I include some sort of drain valve in case I head out of town for awhile?

2) I am not yet certain where the stack makes it’s run but I am certain that it is about fifty year old cast iron. Is there anyway I can run the drain hose through the attic and tie in without cutting in to the cast iron? I understand this may not be possible due to pesky codes and what not, but ideally I’d at least want to avoid turning my vanity or toilet into a utility sink, ie. no visually exposed plumbing.

Attached is the layout of my second floor, it is to scale. Yes, it is tiny and yes, the walls really are a bit disorderly. The next two are underneath the IKEA vanity which I intend to replace.

 

[Reach4]

My questions are: 1) Will I have any issues running some PEX from the vanity through the attic over to the washer? It is a fairly short run and the PEX will be well insulated but should I include some sort of drain valve in case I head out of town for awhile?

Do not run the pipe through the attic and insulate the pipe. Instead, the pipe should be under the insulation on the warm side of the insulation.

Make sure that the pump in the dryer is rated to pump high enough. I suspect it is, but check.

If you wanted to be able to empty the pipe, you would need to blow compressed air.

2) I am not yet certain where the stack makes it’s run but I am certain that it is about fifty year old cast iron. Is there anyway I can run the drain hose through the attic and tie in without cutting in to the cast iron? I understand this may not be possible due to pesky codes and what not, but ideally I’d at least want to avoid turning my vanity or toilet into a utility sink, ie. no visually exposed plumbing.

If you can route the pipe to under the vanity, you can use what is called a "branch tailpiece" to receive the dry condensate. That puts the water upstream of the trap. I am not a plumber.

 

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[WeekendPlumber]

Thank you very much your response!! I really appreciate the input

Do not run the pipe through the attic and insulate the pipe. Instead, the pipe should be under the insulation on the warm side of the insulation.

Yes, that is my plan

Make sure that the pump in the dryer is rated to pump high enough. I suspect it is, but check.

Yes, it is. Plus I am debating whether or not to put in on a pedestal just to be safe but this will depend on the old lady’s choice in aesthetics, haha.

If you wanted to be able to empty the pipe, you would need to blow compressed air.

So you don’t think I’d be able to get away with using something like this https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webston...MI6YnWkenn5QIVi5OzCh3k_A2TEAQYBCABEgLZ1_D_BwE instead of the standard ball valve?

If you can route the pipe to under the vanity, you can use what is called a "branch tailpiece" to receive the dry condensate.

That would be epic if that is all that were needed, especially since the current IKEA setup already has three branch tailpieces roughed in. (One is occupied by the sinks overflow opening) However, I am not sure that will work. First, the sink’s drain pipe is only 1.5”. Second, it can’t be a continuous run due the height restrictions of the washer’s outflow. It needs to be in between 29.5” and 108” above the bottom of the washer. The distance away from the washer should not be an issue. Secondary thoughts?

Thanks again!

 

[Reach4]

Sorry. I screwed up. You were very clear, but my head was not. I was thinking dryer moisture only, where the flow would be small. With the washer flow, that makes for a much larger flow. Forget the branch tailpiece for a washer. The typical washer is rated to pump 96 inches above its base.

I would hope you don't have to go to a pump and tank system. https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/pumps/laundry-drain-pump-systems.html

 

[WeekendPlumber]

Haha, no worries!

I’m definitely not worried about the head factor as I have no qualms about putting it on a pedestal as needed. Where the drain ends up, however, is my upmost concern.

One of my thoughts is to run the washer drain hose to an “untraditional standpipe” in the attic. But the question is where can it drain without cutting in???

 

[WeekendPlumber]

The typical washer is rated to pump 96 inches above its base.

Mine can handle 110” in its current setup because it has a built-up/built-in base.