Plumbing Fleck stainless bypass to 3/4" copper

[Boilers]

I'm wondering how best to connect 3/4" copper which comes in above my new Fleck 5600SXT system to a 3/4" Fleck stainless steel bypass valve. I'm not afraid to sweat copper, and installed the last softener that way. But I'm thinking that maybe a little flex in the line could be a good thing. I don't have experience with flexible water connectors other than the braided lines to fixtures and toilets, and I don't know if I trust the push on connectors.

How about something like this from Falcon, which has a sweat connection at the copper:
http://falconstainless.com/product/h-3404-34-fip-x-78-o-d-copper-sweat-connector-72-i-d/

Also, I will need a nipple at the bypass valve. Should I use stainless or is brass OK?

Thanks.

 

[rdsnake]

I use unions at the water valves. You could plum it straight with copper but if you have a leak and need to tighten it up, you'll have to cut the copper and re do it. It was also a problem getting the nipple in the valve with Teflon tape then heated it up. Union solves all these issues.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...eat-Dielectric-Union-FSU-HDLFDUM-34/205019723

 

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[ditttohead]

The falcon sweat are perfect. I would not recommend a union as the falcon connector itself is a union on the softener side. Why add more components? A brass nipple is my preference as stainless to stainless gaulling is a problem.

 

[Boilers]

Thanks. One more question, and bit bit off topic: how best to support copper pipes like this? This is my current setup (water heater to the right, softener below) and I've always thought the softener was carrying a bit of the weight and shouldn't have. I will be cutting into the copper above the current bypass. Is there strapping I can get to support from the joists above?

 

[Reach4]

Is there strapping I can get to support from the joists above?

Search for pipe hanger , hanger tape, and tab tape.

Your favorite store with plumbing supplies will have a selection.

 

[ditttohead]

Strut Channel with insulated clamps are very good. https://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=15fvzu7

 

[ditttohead]

FYI, your divertaflo bypass is in an odd position. The handle should be pushed all the way in, not partially as shown. I would recommend removing the divertaflo, they are difficult to find anymore. I believe they are now owned by Watts but they don't really promote them anymore. I still stock the stems, but we really haven't sold many for nearly 10+ years.

 

[Old]

Alternatively you could use a split ring pipe hanger to hang the plumbing from above. Something like this with all-thread cut to length.

 

[Mikey]

That all-thread is mighty pricey. I used steel rod and threaded each end for a couple inches. Cheaper and looked better, imho.

 

[ditttohead]

Threading your own rod does look mighty nice! I have seen a couple jobs where they did that, but I also had to laugh when I followed up a year later and had to do some minor adjustment... argh, ended up replacing it with all thread anyway...