Plumbing change in shower remodel

[Dave_A]

I'm needing to make some adjustments to the plumbing as I'm rebuilding our shower and am going from a dual handle to a single mixer.

My plan is cut the copper pipes near the floor, put on a sharkbite with a ball valve, then run pex the remainder of the distance (2-3 feet) up to the valve.

My question is if I can attach another shark bite elbow directly to the valve like this:

And run the pex into this elbow and be done, or if that is a no-go and I need to have another short run of pex between the elbow and the valve? I just didn't know if connecting the elbow to the valve would either negatively affect performance, or perhaps was a code violation?

Thanks for the help!!

 

[Reach4]

My question is if I can attach another shark bite elbow directly to the valve like this

You can do that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

I would not do it, but YOU can.

 

[Jadnashua]

One of the advantages of pex is that it is flexible. Every 90-degree fitting adds friction to the flow. Now, it's not much, but a straight fitting is both cheaper and has less, and, you'd probably be able to curve the pex without issues. Check the minimum bend radius of the pex you are using.

 

[Dave_A]

HJ - why would you not do it that way?

Jadnashua - I'm using 1/2 inch pex and it says the minimum bend radius is 5 inches. So am I understanding it right in assuming that means when you make a bend in the pex, it needs to have a 10 inch diameter "gap" in between the bended sides, so that it doesn't cause the pipe to deform?

 

[Reach4]

HJ - why would you not do it that way?

HJ does not normally use PEX or Sharkbites.

 

[hj]

While they ARE approved for concealed spaces, I would NOT want the potential liability if they started to leak inside the wall.

 

[Jadnashua]

You'd need 5" from the fitting to make a 90-degree bend. If you're worried, you could use a bend support - it's a metal clip that helps form and hold the pex to the smallest available radius.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1..._8903vry57826_pcrid_73529847902561_pkw__pmt__

 

[Dj2]

The issue is that you will potentially have a weak connection(s) in hard to reach locations.
You have copper - stay with copper.

 

[Dave_A]

DJ2,

The only issue is that I'm changing it to a single mixer, rather than having a hot and cold handle. So that means I have to make some cuts and connections. I'm not qualified to make connections without a sharkbite and I'd prefer not to pay a professional for this if sharkbites are acceptable (please refer me to some validated complaints and issues if they're out there?).

I think I may put an access panel on the other side of the wall so I could access the pipes if need be.

 

[Themp]

I would buy a Pex crimp/cinch tool and use a Pex fitting that lets you transition from the brass threads on the valve to a Pex connection. Adding an access panel is ok, but common sense says that having to add one means that you feel something is going to fail. And the access panel does not stop that failure no matter how many times you take a look to check the fitting. Do a search on Sharkbite in a conceal location and most answers are do not do it. If you are doing the shower remodel yourself, then you surely have the skills to solder copper. If you just did the demo of the shower and are going to have the tile done by a professional then use a crimp/cinch tool, no harder than a Sharkbite in my opinion.

I had to do some Pex work to existing plumbing and found that in tight spaces the cinch was easier to use. The crimp tool is large and bulky and the no-go device would show that I messed up the crimp. And you have to change the head for the size of crimp you are doing. On the cinch I never questioned the connection.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-Full-Size-Stainless-Steel-PEX-Clamp-Ring-Tool-23081/202032996