Plumber cancelled; how hard to install tub?

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Lee Polowczuk

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i think you will have enough play in the copper pipes...i am doing something like this now... you would surely have play in the shower head since it is one straight copper pipe going north.
 

Leejosepho

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sinkholed said:
Am I right or wrong thinking this should be a simple hour or two fix for the plumber?

That would seem right to me, and I would definitely not bother even calling him after I had bent his work all up and possibly even broken a connection or two while trying to shove it all sideways a bit.
 

Frenchie

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Yes, that pipe resting against the stud, will prevent you from just shoving it over.

Yes, it's a 4-fitting deal.

No, it wouldn't take an hour or two. I could do it in 1/2 hour. A plumber would probably be in & out within about 15 minutes.



edit to add - what's with all the scorched framing? tsk, tsk.
 
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sinkholed

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That settles it, I'll just have to hope he can move me up to Monday or Tuesday for the fix. As it is I'm doing electric, so I can do partial wallboard, so I can get something done since I still can't do the tub yet. And to think it'd all be done by now if only the wife had been willing to go with a white tub. Oh what fun this is :rolleyes:

As for the scorched framing, I didn't even notice that. Maybe I'll offer him an asbestos "towel" I have somewhere down in the basement. Either that or a fire extinguisher. :eek:
 

Frenchie

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I don't know how much room you have in the layout, but if this is going to hold you up... (if I remember correctly, you're way behind schedule to start with)

You could furr out the wall, so your tub ends up centered under the spout...
 

BAPlumber

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You don't want to just push it over and rescrew. That may mess with the orientation of the trim and put undue stress on the copper tubing.

just cut it and move it so it centers over the overflow, the shower head also. This is a good plumbing practice, if not required. need to find some way to back out the tub spout, if someone slips while getting out and grabs it it could break off.

Brent
 

sinkholed

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I don't know how much room you have in the layout, but if this is going to hold you up... (if I remember correctly, you're way behind schedule to start with)

You could furr out the wall, so your tub ends up centered under the spout...

We'd considered that but it would've tightened up the space between the tub & toilet. I believe we still would've complied with code (believe it's 13-1/2" from centerline of toilet to tub edge?).

But by now it's almost 6 of one/half dozen of another. The extra time to fur the wall (and a window) takes away from the electric & wall surfacing I can do (ceilings & most walls). Key will be whether plumber can fit me in for fix Tue, Wed or Thursday. If so, I -- or maybe he -- can set the tub so that ALL the walls are ready for tiling next Sat.

--Bob
 

sinkholed

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need to find some way to back out the tub spout, if someone slips while getting out and grabs it it could break off

Not sure if I follow. I believe you mean the tub spout copper is too long? I'm pretty sure it still needs to be cut back to the normal length that a standard tub spout extends from the wall.

--Bob
 

BAPlumber

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sinkholed said:
Not sure if I follow. I believe you mean the tub spout copper is too long? I'm pretty sure it still needs to be cut back to the normal length that a standard tub spout extends from the wall.

--Bob

backing out is how the piping is secured in the wall. as it sits now when the tub spout is on you could pull it from the finished wall and possibly break it.
 

Markts30

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What they are saying is the stubout for the tub filer has to be anchored in some way to firly fix the pipe...
It is now just hanging there.
The way I install them is with a drop-eared 90 (brass fitting with lugs for screws) anchored into some backing....
You could put some 2X4 behind the pipe (at the 90) and use some copper straps...
 

sinkholed

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What they are saying is the stubout for the tub filer has to be anchored in some way to firly fix the pipe...
It is now just hanging there.
The way I install them is with a drop-eared 90 (brass fitting with lugs for screws) anchored into some backing....
You could put some 2X4 behind the pipe (at the 90) and use some copper straps...
Reply With Quote

Thinking this is what you're referring to? It was soldered in at the showerhead but not at the tub. I'll add 2x4 behind both. Pick up some brass screws to attach the showerhead 90, and copper straps to attach the tub 90. After the whole shebang gets moved.


Thank you!

--Bob
 

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