Please Help With Newbie Question- Roughin In New Bathroom

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dax321

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Hello, I am working with a 20+yr experience bathroom "handy" man on turning my LAUDRY ROOM into a small full bath. This is a SMALL SINGLE story home and the "laudry room" is right next to the MASTER BATHROOM. As info the FLOW of WASTE WATER from the house starts(the direction of my DMV PIPES) in the kitchen, to guest bath, then to the master bathroom, & then through the LAUDRY room, & FINALLY 5 feet from "OUTSIDE" the LAUDRY ROOM into the SEWER(the CLEAN OUT IS 5 feet from the laundry room-outside). So as u can see INSTALLING a full bath in the laudry
room should be "somewhat" easy since the room is located on the END SIDE of the DMV drainage system.. My MAIN question is can i USE a "air admittance valve"?
My bathroom guy wants to INSTALL a AIR VENT PIPE in the LAUDRY ROOM THROUGH THE ROOF. I hate to question him since he has the experience, but from my research on "air admittance valves" it should work. AS INFO the master bathroom IS conected to a VENT PIPE which is only 6' from the laudry room. IT WOULD BE A PAIN IN THE REAR to run I guess it's called a "WET VENT" inside the wall to the MASTER BATHROOM.. Meaning the NEW LAUDRY/BATH ROOM would use the 4" VENT PIPE IN THE MASTER BATH.

I would simply like to INSTALL a "air admittance valve" INTO a WALL in the NEW LAUDRY/BATH room which would be built into the DRY WALL.

Does this make sense? WOuld it work?
i made a chart on how the dmv AND THE AAV SHOULD LOOK, BUT COULD NOT FIGURE OUT HOW TO UPLOAD THIS PICTURE-- I COULD EMAIL TO ANYONE WILLING TO HELP ME OUT



THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
Don



k u for your time"
 
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Gary Swart

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Studor vents can not be built in because the can and will fail. I suggest you listen to the advice and put a regular vent to the outside. Studors do work and sometimes make sense, but they still are not preferred when there is a reasonable way to use an outside vent stack.
 

Cass

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Studor vents will work but can not be buried in a wall. They must be in an exposed servicable area. It should work in your case but if we could see a drawing we could tell better.

Just FYI...

DMV = department of motor vehicles :)

DWV = drain waste vent
 

hj

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studor

A Studor vent is a lazy plumber's vent. Using them can create their own problems under certain conditions in the future. A conventional vent is the best way unless it is completely impossible to install one. If I were doing the job, I would not ask you how I should run the vent, nor would I expect you to tell me how to do my job.
 

Geniescience

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Your guy is RIGHT about venting

Methinks the guy you hired is OK, Don. What you have described that HE WANTS to do seems ADEQUATE and ACCEPTABLE to me, and certainly not OVERKILL in any way.

Even in an exposed location, an AAV is not up to par.

There are always many ways that will work.

I understand this much : You DON'T WANT to install a full new vent-to-outside THROUGH THE ROOF. What you said in the remainder of that paragraph was not perfectly clear to me. Perhaps you have other options. You can discuss this here -- without using an AAV as the solution.

David.
(Not a plumber.)
 

dax321

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Here Is A Chart--thanks

Here Is A Chart--thanks
 

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dax321

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Thanks To All For The Fasst Reponces!

Thanks for all the responces.. I just HATE to open a HOLE thru my NEW FLAT ROOF.. I thought since this was going to be a small "utility bath" it may not been a huge deal.(its going to be used as a private small efficiency for my brother) .. I NOW see that this "AVV" is only used for in situations that truly warrent it with no other option.

I figure out how to upload my chart incase someone cares to comment(yeah I know "Dont quit my day job" ..

Thanks again for all the help
Don
 

hj

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aav

One potential problem, even though it does not seem like one at first glance, is that if anything were to even partially obstruct the sewer so it filled with water to the level of the new plumbing's connection. that bathroom would stop working immediately, even though it would still function with a conventional vent through the roof.
 

dax321

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So normal vent pipe is much SAFER than a AVV

Hj, thanks for the reply... If I understand u'r reply correctly..

By using a normal vent pipe instead of a AVV during a CLOGGED SEWER LINE would allow my BATHROOM to work(the one of the chart)

Thanks for your time
Don
 

Geniescience

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it's not a WET vent to tie in to the 4" Master Bath vent

Don

I re-read your first post several times. You mentioned a "wet vent" which sounds like a third option from the way you described it.

Your THIRD OPTION, which you also appear to reject, is to run a vent six feet over to the existing vent (4" through roof, existing).

That is not called a wet vent. As far as I know.

This looks good to me. When you build anything, you'll kick up a lot of dust. So if this is the main reason why you don't want to cut into the drywall in the Master Bath and have to patch it after connecting a new vent, well, I'll suggext that you let that requirement slide. Dust is everywhere when you renovate or model. At least you know what the dust is made of.:)
 

dax321

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it's not a WET vent to tie in to the 4" Master Bath vent

Thanks Geniescience..! Yep u read my mind.. It would be a mess to cut up the master bath.. Looks like I will be cutting a hole in my brand new roof( i hate to do it)..


Thanks
 

Geniescience

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Save the roof. Use vent in MB.

Without seeing it, I can't say for sure, but I know that my first impulse when remodeling is to kick up dust INSIDE the house and not cut any new holes in anyone's roof. Less risk. Probably the same amount of mess and dust too, within a range of 10%.

David
 

dax321

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New Chart #3 Please Review

NEW CHART #3 PLEASE REVIEW- thanks don
 

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