Please advise on hot&cold water inlet piping

[chrisoffice]

I am going to replace this 10+ year old water heater, and am thinking about re-do all the pipework that goes into the water heater, as shown on the picture, those copper pipes are covered with greenish corrosion.

The cold water goes from the water main to the water heater directly, the original installer made several turns on the copper pipe before it goes into the heater, to reduce the water pressure maybe?

I am going to use the 18-inch flexible pipe to connect both the hot and cold water to the water heater. Now the question is, because I am getting rid of all those copper pipes shown on the picture, and maybe it is not a good idea to directly connect the new flexible pipes to the remaining outlets in the wall. How should I run the new copper pipes from the wall outlet before it connects to the flexible pipes?

Thanks!

 

[chrisoffice]

BTW, the original installer did not install a thermal expansion tank, and it worked fine for the past 10+ years. It is a condo unit, I believe there is a check valve for the entire subdivision, but not for each individual condo unit. So probably the thermal expansion tank is not needed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

All that green on the pipes probably flux that ran down the pipes when installed. Replace that gate valve with a full port ball valve. That cold piping was probably to close between the drop and pipe out of the heater for two 90s ( elbows) and installer didn't have the fittings to make that close offset.

 

[Onokai]

I would use some copper flex pipes as well- on each connection to tank-after the shut off valve on cold water side-I would add another ball valve myself on hot water side as well.

 

[Jadnashua]

First, you need to know what your local inspector and codes require. Some places require the in/out pipes be rigid, some require them to be flexible, and some allow either. Generally, areas where earthquakes are a potential issue require flexible lines.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The previous installation was not performed by a plumber and the cold water side has nothing to try to reduce pressure. Too much solder drips, excess flux and the pipe connection at the water heater has no heat traps. They appear to be sweated on at an angle unless it's a fisheye effect from a smartphone camera. (I expanded the picture). On the hot water line it is good from the wall to the coupler past the elbow. The cold water side is a joke.

What I would do is cut the hot water side just above the coupler with a pipe cutter (not a hack saw) and the cold water side unthread the connection at the wall. (place a wrench on the CPVC coupler and back of the male copper fitting. Use some steel wool to clean up the remaining copper pipe. The green stuff is not corrosion but as fitter30 stated, old flux. I do not care for flex pipe but with an endless selection of Sharkbite fittings, you can do the entire install with hard copper pipe, CPVC or copper flex lines. Do what Jim suggest, do install a expansion tank. There are millions of homes without them that seem to work fine but since nearly every city water supply uses backflow preventers, one is needed. It's in the instructions and without one the water heater may not be warrantied for any reason.

Just last week I bought a pressure gauge for my own home without an expansion tank. With running water the pressure was around 80-85 PSI. with water not running and I know the electric water heater was heating, the pressure jumped to 105 PSI in a minute or two, overnight it went to 125 PSI. I'm not sure if the gauge is accurate but it was still a 40 PSI increase. Another project I have to take care of with my 13 year old electric WH.