Planning for replacement well water system

Campervanman · Mar 16, 2021

I am planning ahead for the replacement of my current well water system. I don't need to do anything immediately (touch wood!) but there are a few factors I am thinking about:

The age of the system (could my existing galvanized pressure tank be 50 years old?)
Potentially short run time of well pump (unbeknownst to me the well pump was switched from 1/2 HP to 3/4HP when replaced after a failure, two years ago)
Noise when pump engages and current iron filter back washes (now using bedroom next to mechanical room and it is quite noticeable)
More noticeable orange coloring in toilet bowls

Right now, I have a Goulds 7CS07412CL 3/4HP pump (at approx 250')> Waterite W-988 air injector > 42 gallon bladder-less galvanized tank > aqua pure chem-free iron removal system > GAC filter (radon in water, installed in 2014) > whole house filter.

2014 water test results posted below.

I'd like to figure out what components I could install to replace the pressure tank and iron removal system and retain the GAC filter. I would install and maintain myself.

Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks in advance!

Campervanman · Mar 16, 2021

Water test

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Valveman · Mar 17, 2021

Yes the galvanized tank could be 50 years old. Post a picture. Galvanized tanks are used to aerate the iron out of the water. You may have enough iron treatment equipment that you no longer need the galvanized tank, but you need to check on that. If you switch from a galvanized tank to a diaphragm/bladder style tank you could also use a Cycle Stop Valve. But switching from a galvanized tank to a bladder style tank means someone is going to have to pull the pump up about 5' and remove the bleeder orifice down the well.

Campervanman · Mar 17, 2021

valveman said:
Yes the galvanized tank could be 50 years old. Post a picture. Galvanized tanks are used to aerate the iron out of the water. You may have enough iron treatment equipment that you no longer need the galvanized tank, but you need to check on that. If you switch from a galvanized tank to a diaphragm/bladder style tank you could also use a Cycle Stop Valve. But switching from a galvanized tank to a bladder style tank means someone is going to have to pull the pump up about 5' and remove the bleeder orifice down the well.

Thank you, Valveman. I have a micronizer/air injector installed immediately prior to the pressure tank. It failed a couple years back and the tank became waterlogged. I had assumed that meant I didn't have a bleeder orifice in the well. Would that make sense?