Pitless Adapter For Concrete Dug Well?

[LCF]

I am installing a submersible pump in one of my dug wells in order to supply my greenhouse. I have dealt with pitless adapters on some of my drilled wells but never on a dug well.

I want to make sure that after I drill the hole into the concrete well casing I am able to seal it off so nothing gets into the well. I can see on 2 of my dug wells where the previous property owners chiseled away the concrete to make connections, but I didn't know if there was a better way. I thought maybe I would just drill the hole, run the pipe through with an elbow and then seal up around where the pipe goes through the side of the well. I am using poly pipe.

What is the best solution for this? Thanks a lot

 

[Valveman]

Here is thread where that was recently discussed and VAWelldriller has an excellent way to make that work.

The CSV12550-1 would work well in this case. But the casing is large enough to install a CSV1A and you could install the CSV1A using the PK1A kit, which has everything you need.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-through-unheated-building.69681/#post-517019

 

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[LCF]

Woah! I didn't see those later posts.. Wow, so if I use his method, I can keep the pump, pressure tank, pressure switch and everything right inside the well casing, avoiding the issue of freeze-ups in the winter. I guess my questions next about that method would be, what happens if we get a lot of rain and the well water comes up high and touches the tank, switch and wiring?

 

[Valveman]

The pressure switch is the only thing that will not like to be submerged. But with a few elbows and 1/4" nipples you could raise the pressure switch to the highest point to keep it out of the water.

You can also put the CSV125 in the well and the manifold with the little pressure tank/pressure switch and other fittings can go in the house.
See this.

 

[LCF]

I didn't realize you could do that with the pressure switch. Sounds like I should really do it this instead. Now what is the CSV125, and what is the purpose of it? I've never installed one on any of the tank setups I have done. I did watch the video and I am trying to understand exactly what it does.

 

[VAWellDriller]

Woah! I didn't see those later posts.. Wow, so if I use his method, I can keep the pump, pressure tank, pressure switch and everything right inside the well casing, avoiding the issue of freeze-ups in the winter. I guess my questions next about that method would be, what happens if we get a lot of rain and the well water comes up high and touches the tank, switch and wiring?

That is a concern......I've never done this setup with a well that ever has water within 15-20' of the surface; and pressure switches will sometimes corrode being in the slightly damp environment. You may find that you should just plan on replacing the pressure switch every 2-3 years....in my view a small inconvenience to get away with not having to come up with a freeze protection plan for the equipment. I only have a handful or setups like this running.....we do just the pitless/stainless pipe upgrade and leave the tank in the house also.

 

[Valveman]

I didn't realize you could do that with the pressure switch. Sounds like I should really do it this instead. Now what is the CSV125, and what is the purpose of it? I've never installed one on any of the tank setups I have done. I did watch the video and I am trying to understand exactly what it does.

The CSV125 controls the pump and makes it deliver city like constant pressure to the house and keeps the pump from cycling on/off repeatedly. The CSV125 also makes it so you can use a little 2.2 to 4.5 gallon size tank instead of a 44 gallon size tank for that size pump. That way the tank and everything can fit in a small space. However, the tank and pressure switch can still be in the house the way VA explains it. Either way the CSV125 can be installed in the well so it is prior to any hydrants or tees. The CSV125 can be submerged so if the water level rises it won't be a problem.

You can also get a pressure switch in a Nema 4X box that would keep it from getting wet. I have seen pressure switched wrapped in plastic bags and all kinds of things. But usually wrapping them up causes condensation and still turns them green. But like VA said, replace it every few years if needed, pressure switches don't cost much.

 

[LCF]

Thank you both very much for the advice. VAWellDriller, your design for keeping the tank in the well is excellent. I would never have thought to set it up this way. I am going to consider it, but last week I was shocked when I opened up the well cap to look inside and saw the water was higher than I had ever seen it before. It was about 5 feet from the top of the well cap. The only way I could pull this off is to use some nipples to bring up the height of the pressure switch. I don't mind replacing them every few years because they are really cheap anyway. Its something I am going to consider.

My greenhouse installed gave me another idea which would be just to keep the pressure tank/switch/manifold inside the greenhouse, and build a separate box to encase the equipment in the winter, with a hole in the top to install a ceramic light fixture that can hold a 100 watt bulb. He said that would be enough to keep it from freezing, so I certainly have a few things to consider.

 

[Valveman]

However, the tank and pressure switch can still be in the house the way VA explains it. Either way the CSV125 can be installed in the well so it is prior to any hydrants or tees. The CSV125 can be submerged so if the water level rises it won't be a problem.

As long as your electric power comes from inside the green house, there is no reason not to put the pressure tank/pressure switch in the greenhouse. And if your greenhouse installer didn't tell you about Cycle Stop Valves he needs to do a little research. A Cycle Stop Valve is very important for greenhouse operations where there are a lot of different flow rates required running for long periods of time. If you check our references you will find lots of greenhouses, tree farms, nurseries, even the USDA benefits from Cycle Stop Valves on these types of installations.

Also I have seen several well houses burn down because a heat lamp caught it on fire. Use a base board heater or a portable oil filled radiator type space heater. These have a thermostat so they only work when needed, and they don't get hot enough to catch the place on fire.

 

[LCF]

Excellent idea about a plug in oil rad! I didn't like the idea of the 100 watt light either. Especially considering the box I build will be made out of the same plastic wall-ends that my greenhouse has.

I am going to install a cycle stop valve. I will likely go with a small pressure tank. If I went with a 2 gallon tank, what size valve should I get? I will be likely doing drip irrigation, but will also be running a standard garden hose often.

 

[Valveman]

I would recommend a 4.5 gallon size tank as it will hold about 1 gallon of water. As long as you are using more than 1 GPM the CSV will keep the pump running continuously. Just make sure all your zones are more than 1 GPM. The water will be going right past the pressure tank. But for times when you are using less than 1 GPM the 4.5 gallon tank will be better than a 2 gallon tank.