PH Neutralizer - Calcite or Soda ash?

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270win

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Hello Everyone,


I'm looking for some help with my PH Neutralizer which has been in operation for quite some time and does a moderate job at raising PH, but I never really liked the way it operates. It is a 10 x 54 tank and has a Fleck valve on top.

In the past I underestimated the value of raising the PH, but a while ago I finally started to experiment with different media mixtures. Once I had the PH near 7.0, my water was extremely soft and left little residue behind. So, for all those ‘told you so’s’ out there, the answer is yes, a neutral PH makes a world of difference with the water chemistry that follows!!

Our water is rusty, hard and has some radon. Really disgusting stuff. Leave the raw water in a glass for 20 minutes and it looks like tea once the iron shows itself.


My water/filter system consists of the following in this order:

1.) 480’ well with submersible pump, 6 gpm recovery. Static level around 25’ from the surface.

2.) Medium size pressure tank in the basement

3.) Pressure switch adjusted for 40-60 PSI

4.) Filter 1 is the PH Neutralizer. Calcite/Corosex mix with side fill port. (Fleck 2510 valve)

5.) Filter 2 is a Greensand filter with Potassium permanganate (Fleck 2510 valve)

6.) Filter 3 is a Water Softener (Fleck 2510 valve)

7.) Filter 4 is an upflow carbon filter that does a great job removing my small amount of radon

8.) Big blue sediment filter

9.) Onward to the distribution manifolds.


I find the maintenance a bit of a pain, both with trying to find the correct ratio of Calcite/Corosex and keeping a constant PH. The current ratio of Calcite/Corosex is 2:1 which pulls my PH up from around 5.6 to 6.7. However, over time, this drops as the media is sacrificed.

Also, I’m betting that the much softer Corosex dissolves at a faster rate. Therefore even if I were to replenish the media through the side port….I’d probably need to use a “richer” mix with more Corosex. (Another life lesson was when I put too much Corosex in and it turned to concrete)

So, my questions are:

1.) If add more media through the side port which is Corosex “rich”, will the Corosex then get mixed evenly throughout the tank after a few rinses? I suppose this will depend on my flow during the rinse?

2.) What is the heaviest ratio of Calcite/Corosex that can be used before it concretes. I need more than 2:1 if I'm to get to the 7.0 level for any amount of time.

3.) Would an injection system with Soda Ash be easier to regulate?

Another observation is that I think the PH levels with this system if plotted on a graph would give me a sawtooth waveform. Up after a media fill, then slowly back down, then back up. I would prefer flat.....

Yes, I know that an injection system can also be messy, but I also have a pressure drop issue which will be the subject of an additional thread

Thanks to everyone in advance,

Brad
 

ditttohead

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The neutralizing affect also varies greatly with the current water flow rate which is constantly varying.

Yes, a sod ash injection system should give you a more consistent pH, They are fairly easy to maintain, reasonably priced, and probably just a little more maintenance than a calcite/corosex system. Just stay away from the inexpensive online companies that are selling the cheapest imported junk.
 

270win

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Hello Ditttohead,

Thanks for your input.

OK, that makes sense. (i.e.- water that has been resting in the media vs water that is passing at top velocity. ) And I would agree with you about the equipment. It does not pay in the long run to buy inferior equipment.

Follow on questions:

1.) What would be the max mix ratio of Calcite:Corosex that won't cause the hardening issue?
2.) What is the best way to test PH? I bought an inexpensive electronic meter, but the readings seem to jump around. I don't trust it. However, I did to the calibration with the chemicals just before use. Maybe I should compare it to test strips?

Thanks
 

ditttohead

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Unfortunately the question about ratios is unanswerable. It is purely a trial and error exercise while you find an acceptable balance. Personally I use the Spin-Touch by LaMotte, but this is a bit pricey for most. I like the cheap pH meters since they can be disposed of when they start to fail.
 

ditttohead

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I am attempting to have a real article completed within 3 weeks. I am doing my catalog page for this item over the next two weeks based on interviews with several manufacturers and my personal real world experience as well as a lot of math equations, this is one of the more difficult tech articles I have written. I will post it on this site when I think it is complete.
 
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