Tuttles Revenge
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Typically a metallic water system can be used as an electrical bond. In some of our jurisdictions, when that bond is removed, it must be replaced in another manner.
PEX to Water Heater connection
- Thread starter Brett Sanders
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wwhitney
In the Trades
OK, if when replacing the galvanized the OP finds any copper wires attached to the galvanized piping, then they need to be investigated to determine their function, and extended to the correct location on the electrical system. Agreed.
As to the water heater itself, it is grounded by the electrical supply. Short isolated sections of metal water piping don't need to be bonded, but they could be; with the dielectric unions at the tank, the copper sections are not bonded to the tank.
BTW, what type of cable is that entering the flex conduit sleeve to the water heater?
Cheers, Wayne
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Brett Sanders
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It's the power line, whatever is required for the heater. It was fully covered with the original water heater but the new one had to be moved cause, well, old house and odd things that come with it. So the plumber cut a section of useless drywall out and adjusted the power line.
Seeing the entire setup, it looks like a done deal. On the West Coast we use flex, and that changes to solid connections further East.
That's one of the reasons we like to know what state people are from. Local codes change from state to state, from city to city.
That's one of the reasons we like to know what state people are from. Local codes change from state to state, from city to city.
Brett Sanders
New Member
Awesome. Thank you for the advice. Like I said I can't get the connection point at the heater undone to save my life anyway so I wasn't sure what to do. You all have been a huge help!
Braided lines are rubber or plastic tubes covered in braid. Some are probably fine. But corrugated lines don't have a rubber tube inside.
On a different point, a dielectric union with PEX seems odd. Dialectic means electrically insulating. I understand that the desire was for a union, and the dielectric feature just came along for the ride.
wwhitney
In the Trades
The dielectric union at the PEX to copper transition is there because it used to be a galvanized to copper transition.
Cheers, Wayne
TorontoTim
Member
I know this is an older thread, but better than starting a new one, right?
I just replaced the anode rod in my Bradford White heater (integrated with the hot outlet) and have realized I made an error. This is at a seasonal cottage, off grid, with a propane B-vent heater.
I got rid of the dielectric union not really knowing what I was doing and went straight in with the 3/4" PEX to a brass fitting on the galvanized nipple of the anode rod.
I realize now that I should have at least 18" of copper to protect the PEX from the flue heat and going back to copper means I guess I need to put a dielectric union back. Like the photo Terry posted earlier, my 9 year old union and outlet of the anode rod was rusty and crusty.
The union is a nice idea for future servicing, but this 9 year old heater will likely be replaced with a different model next time around, so I'll have to redo the supply lines I expect anyway. So I'm not overly fussed on the convenience of union fittings for service.
Is consensus that those corrugated flex lines are the best option when going from the heater to PEX supply lines?
Photos of my fittings attached. The image with the two unions in place is the original install with copper done by a 'professional' local plumber - copper shorter than it should be and not the neatest installation. I redid the hot when I did the anode rod but haven't done the cold supply yet.
I just replaced the anode rod in my Bradford White heater (integrated with the hot outlet) and have realized I made an error. This is at a seasonal cottage, off grid, with a propane B-vent heater.
I got rid of the dielectric union not really knowing what I was doing and went straight in with the 3/4" PEX to a brass fitting on the galvanized nipple of the anode rod.
I realize now that I should have at least 18" of copper to protect the PEX from the flue heat and going back to copper means I guess I need to put a dielectric union back. Like the photo Terry posted earlier, my 9 year old union and outlet of the anode rod was rusty and crusty.
The union is a nice idea for future servicing, but this 9 year old heater will likely be replaced with a different model next time around, so I'll have to redo the supply lines I expect anyway. So I'm not overly fussed on the convenience of union fittings for service.
Is consensus that those corrugated flex lines are the best option when going from the heater to PEX supply lines?
Photos of my fittings attached. The image with the two unions in place is the original install with copper done by a 'professional' local plumber - copper shorter than it should be and not the neatest installation. I redid the hot when I did the anode rod but haven't done the cold supply yet.
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John Gayewski
In the Trades
Best? Probably not, but they are pretty convenient. A rusty crusty dielectric union doesn't mean it's bad, it means that corrosion had been passed from the heater connection to the dielectric union. It probably lengthened the life of your heater.
It really depends on how your heater and piping are set up. But flex are good.
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