Pex supply line support in cabinet needed?

[jbuszkie]

I have a new bath with PEX coming out of the floor and into the cabinets for the sink supply.
Do I need to have some sort of support for the PEX? Maybe a bracket tying them together?
It seems like after I put the supply stop valve in and connect the supply to the faucet, there will
be a lot of play in the line. All my other baths the original plumber stubbed out to copper.
And the valves are well supported. I know from a connection point of view it will be fine..
I'm just wondering will I have issues later in time when I try to shut them off and they will be stubborn?

Also.. I have a copper stubout to the new toilet. Do they have some sort of chrome sleeve to
go over the copper pipe? I went to blue home center today and I didn't see anything where the rest
of the supply stops and the escutcheons were. Or is that something I need to get at a plumbing supply or online?

And is it really OK to just get a press on valve vs sweating one on (for the copper)?

Great Forum Btw!! The discussions here lead me to get a Toto vs a AS toilet!

Jim

 

[hj]

"pipe sleeves" are installed BEFORE the valves are installed. I would NEVER install a "push on" valve, but I have removed hundreds of them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[jbuszkie]

"pipe sleeves" are installed BEFORE the valves are installed.

I assumed that.. But did I just miss it in the home center?

I would NEVER install a "push on" valve, but I have removed hundreds of them.

Why.. Because they leaked?

 

[Jadnashua]

If soldering scares you, use a compression valve. If you buy an escutcheon and you cut the stub off at the proper length, you won't see the copper at all. If you really want it to stick out, there are some solder on chromed fittings, or you can buy a sleeve. A push on valve can rotate, many are plastic and can break if hit, and, the teeth can score the pipe enough so that if it is removed and you try to install a new one, the scratches may prevent the o-ring of a new push-on valve to leak. You could then solder on one and the solder would fill in the scratches.

 

[jbuszkie]

If soldering scares you, use a compression valve.

NAh... I'm not afraid of the big bad soldering wolf. It's just that PEX and Push on are easier!

I just need to find the sleeve now... And remember to put it and the escutcheon on first!

OR just have my plumber do it!

Jim

 

[hj]

quote; just have my plumber do it!

That is a good idea, and if he is a good plumber he will NOT need the sleeve.

 

[Jadnashua]

Forgot PEX ...but, compression valves work fine with it as long as you either buy extra or pick a pre-packaged valve that has the internal reinforcement ferrule - compression needs something stiff to tighten down to, and the internal ferrule provides that. Works fine. The OD of PEX is the same as copper, so the same compression valve will work as long as you add the ferrule.

If the wall is still open, you can install a copper stubout with the brace to hold it nice and tight, exactly where you want it.

 

[jbuszkie]

Couple of other questions...

It turns out my plumber doesn't "plumb" anymore for a living. Economy and such..
He just works some evenings and some weekends when he can for some extra cash.

I want to get the toilet installed this weekend so I'll tackle it myself and have him rescue me if things go poorly..

1. I've noticed in a couple pictures that the toilet shutoff valve outlet sometimes is at the 3:00 position and other
times it's at 12:00. Is there any advantage one way or another? I might guess that the 3:00 would put a 90
curve in the connecting hose that would help allow to take up the extra slack in the line if it were a bit longer than necessary..

2. I need a small section of 3" pvc (about 3" also) to connect the flange to the elbow in the floor.
The some center only sells the foam core crap in smaller lengths. The the foam core stuff ok for this application.
It says not for pressure which makes sense. Is the foam core stuff routinely used DWV lines? Is it code approved?

3. Do you guys cement in the toilet flange or just leave it friction fit? It seems pretty tight and would probably be water tight under no pressure.
I was wondering what would happen if down the road one had to replace the flange because it cracked or something.
It would be a lot easier to replace if it wasn't glued!
My guess is you just deal with it down the road and you really need to cement the parts together.
But I thought I would ask before I glued it all together..

Thanks!

 

[Jadnashua]

1. Doesn't matter...position so your supply hose has the neatest curves.
2. Foam core is approved for drains. A drain should not be under pressure.
3. You must cement the connections. Actually the cement contains solvents and plastic and literally welds the pieces together. Use a flange with a SS ring on it, and the likelyhood of it breaking or rusting is slim. Don't use an all-plastic one. Then, the anchor bolts have something to actually grab onto that wont' crack. The flange should be on the TOP of the FINISHED floor, and anchored to it. Also, the connection is an interference fit...IOW, the bottom of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the pipe. It will only fit once you add the cement, which actually melts the plastic and welds them together. Because it is slightly tapered, until that happens, if you don't hold them together, the pipe will try to back out of the socket (the cement acts like a lubricant, too). Because of the interference fit, you can't dry fit stuff...you have to actually measure or you'll end up short as the pipe is likely to go in another 1/2" or more on each connection once it is glued up.

 

[jbuszkie]

3. You must cement the connections. Use a flange with a SS ring on it, and the likelyhood of it breaking or rusting is slim. Don't use an all-plastic one.

Yeah I know all about the glue welding and such.. I figured as much that I needed to glue.. but I wanted to ask first.
I couldn't find a flange that wasn't all plastic and fit my needs. Maybe I'll look again tonight. But I pre cut the tile to
align with the screw holes in the flange that I already bought. If I get another flange then I'll have to have the fun time of drilling through the tile and SLC compound underneath it.

I think I'll try and take my chances with the all plastic one (If I can't find something tonight) It's a very thick PVC (Maybe ~1/2").

Jim