PEX, splices and cmu walls

Users who are viewing this thread

Ron1111

Not a Licensed Professional
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
South Texas
I am doing a kitchen remodel and reading a lot about PEX. I had a plumber remove the 60 year old Galvanized and install PEX. I asked that splices be kept to a minimum and all fitting be metal and not plastic. I also asked for expansion fitting only and Aquapex. I am not happy with his work and have some questions.

1. (picture attached) Can PEX be encased with (what material) for repair to the cmu wall that was knocked out and should I have the 90 fitting replaced with brass. My feeling was he should of used bend brackets, not 90s and made the run one continuous run back to the source.


2. (picture attached) The pex runs up walls and into the ceiling (just like the old galv. did) I have little worry about freezing being in south Texas but am concerned that a couple of the runs loop quite high and are very close to the roof deck and will be above the blown in insulation. I have more a problem with cold water being hot in the summer because pipes are in the ceiling. Should or can I wrap the pex in pipe wrap to help protect it and keep water cool in the summer. It is very rare for us to drop below freezing.


I think the runs should be home runs and fitting be kept to a minimum esp. when they will be inaccessible and inside a wall or ceiling.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ron1111

Not a Licensed Professional
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
South Texas
Sorry, pictures now attached
 

Attachments

  • Plumbing-work21-23July028.JPG
    Plumbing-work21-23July028.JPG
    75.4 KB · Views: 2,237
  • Plumbing-work21-23July035.JPG
    Plumbing-work21-23July035.JPG
    99.6 KB · Views: 1,793

CountryBumkin

Active Member
Messages
915
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Orlando, FL
There is nothing wrong with using the plastic PEX fittings. I have a lot of them in my PEX plumbing (I prefer them). Of course the fittings add resistance to flow, so the less the better, but I would not be concerned.

You can wrap the PEX pipe in foam insulation. I think it is a good idea in an un-insulated attic installation. PEX actually sells pipe already wrapped in foam http://www.supplyhouse.com/Pre-Insulated-AquaPEX-Tubing-11448000 You can buy the foam pipe wrap in most big-box stores.

Concrete in contact with the PEX will not hurt anything (they use PEX in radiant floor heating systems) which is also why I like the plastic fittings better.

Regarding what to use to fill the wall - I can't help you with that. I would think that any of those specialty "mortar repair" mixes would work. See this http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-repair/materials.html
 

Ron1111

Not a Licensed Professional
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
South Texas
There is nothing wrong with using the plastic PEX fittings. I have a lot of them in my PEX plumbing (I prefer them). Of course the fittings add resistance to flow, so the less the better, but I would not be concerned.

You can wrap the PEX pipe in foam insulation. I think it is a good idea in an un-insulated attic installation. PEX actually sells pipe already wrapped in foam http://www.supplyhouse.com/Pre-Insulated-AquaPEX-Tubing-11448000 You can buy the foam pipe wrap in most big-box stores.

Concrete in contact with the PEX will not hurt anything (they use PEX in radiant floor heating systems) which is also why I like the plastic fittings better.

Regarding what to use to fill the wall - I can't help you with that. I would think that any of those specialty "mortar repair" mixes would work. See this http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-repair/materials.html

Thanks for the advice. Point taken on the plastic fittings. I agree about flow and fittings too. My point was when I asked why not just bend the pipe for the 90 instead of using 90 fittings I was told "well that's too tight a bend" so I bring home a 1/2" Plastic bend support and its well within specs. Then I ask about the plastic 90 and was told "they don't make that in brass". I look up and see the same 90 fitting in brass at another joint. I guess I got the left overs from a previous job. In electronics I would never take a 20 foot run of wire, run two 10 foot sections and splice it. I would pull a 20 foot run of wire.
As for foam insulation I'm more worried about it melting in a hot south Texas attic than the issue with freezing lines. Everything I read says run PEX under the insulation not on top of it. I have seen the soft version of foam run on Air Conditioning lines in a attic but not the hard foam wrap.
 

CountryBumkin

Active Member
Messages
915
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Orlando, FL
I have the same PEX tubing "in foam" that I linked to in my attic (Florida). It's not going melt. It's tough stuff. But if you can get it under the insulation (not too hard if you have blown insulation) then go for it.

In your job, I don't see any reason why the contractor couldn't have chipped out the concrete in a more curved way to allow a continuous piece of PEX. I'm not there so I don't know the reason - but I wouldn't worry about it. If it was plumbed in copper it would have a lot more 90 degree fittings.

I don't know what brand PEX your plumber is using - but I would be very surprised if they didn't make the fittings in brass. Maybe his supplier just doesn't have the brass ones in stock (I believe the plastic is used much more - so it may be only what is stocked).
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
If you're worried about freezing in the attic, then you're better off putting insulation over the PEX, and leaving nothing below it.
You need to trap the warmth of the home to keep the pipes from freezing.
Just putting foam over the pipes in a cold attic does not achieve that. If the surrounding air is freezing, then the pipe is freezing.
If you put the pipe near a warm ceiling and throw a blanket over it, then you can keep it warm.
 

Ron1111

Not a Licensed Professional
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
South Texas
If you're worried about freezing in the attic, then you're better off putting insulation over the PEX, and leaving nothing below it.
You need to trap the warmth of the home to keep the pipes from freezing.
Just putting foam over the pipes in a cold attic does not achieve that. If the surrounding air is freezing, then the pipe is freezing.
If you put the pipe near a warm ceiling and throw a blanket over it, then you can keep it warm.

Thanks Terry. I have seen your great articles and drawings on that very subject. Even though freezing is not a issue here my brain tells me given all this "weird" weather we get these days going with the worst case scenario is the best course of action.
 

Ron1111

Not a Licensed Professional
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
South Texas
I have the same PEX tubing "in foam" that I linked to in my attic (Florida). It's not going melt. It's tough stuff. But if you can get it under the insulation (not too hard if you have blown insulation) then go for it.

In your job, I don't see any reason why the contractor couldn't have chipped out the concrete in a more curved way to allow a continuous piece of PEX. I'm not there so I don't know the reason - but I wouldn't worry about it. If it was plumbed in copper it would have a lot more 90 degree fittings.

I don't know what brand PEX your plumber is using - but I would be very surprised if they didn't make the fittings in brass. Maybe his supplier just doesn't have the brass ones in stock (I believe the plastic is used much more - so it may be only what is stocked).

Of the fittings I looked at they were all Wirsbo. I know I asked for all expander fittings and top quality Fittings and PEX. With the advice I feel better now about closing everything in now. I just don't understand why run several pieces of PEX with fittings when it's a totally unobstructed run and you could of ran one continuous length from point A to B. That just adds unnecessary fittings, restrictions, creates more work and cuts into the bottom line. I do know the brass cost about 4 or 5 times more than the plastic fitting. Thanks for the advice.
 

Magneto

Member
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Stanford, Connecticut
Prices depend on the company my friend.... if your looking at top of the line push fit plastic fitting theyre equal in price and could even cost you more due to their intricate design.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks