PEX and boilers

[Chad schreiber]

Hi, I apologize if my question has been asked before but I’m trying to determine if I’m being told the correct things.
We are adding additional baseboard heaters to our new addition and the installer wants to use pex instead of copper pipe. The runs will vary between approx 10’ to 35’. He did say he will use oxygen barrier pex which I read is correct. He also wants to use shark bite couplings to go from pex to copper. This is all being done in the basement under the first floor joists.
Does this all sound correct? I have reservations about the sharkbite fittings but have no experienced with any of it. Is the pex the new way of plumbing hydronic baseboard? How is the transition from pex to copper done if shark bites are not a good idea? Thanks much for any and all advice

 

[JohnjH2o1]

I wouldn't use sharkbites, use a copper female and a pex male.

 

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[Chad schreiber]

I wouldn't use sharkbites, use a copper female and a pex male.

Hi, I apologize if my question has been asked before but I’m trying to determine if I’m being told the correct things.
We are adding additional baseboard heaters to our new addition and the installer wants to use pex instead of copper pipe. The runs will vary between approx 10’ to 35’. He did say he will use oxygen barrier pex which I read is correct. He also wants to use shark bite couplings to go from pex to copper. This is all being done in the basement under the first floor joists.
Does this all sound correct? I have reservations about the sharkbite fittings but have no experienced with any of it. Is the pex the new way of plumbing hydronic baseboard? How is the transition from pex to copper done if shark bites are not a good idea? Thanks much for any and all advice[/Q

I wouldn't use sharkbites, use a copper female and a pex male.

I wouldn't use sharkbites, use a copper female and a pex male.

thanks, is there a preferred brand of pex or a “better” brand to use?

 

[Jadnashua]

There are three manufacturing methods for making pex and the result is designated as type -A, -B, or -C. -A is the original design and tends to be a little more expensive, but is also the only version that can use expansion type connectors (i.e., no crimp rings). This allows the ID of the fittings to be larger with less restriction. Type -A also is more flexible, so it can be bent into a smaller radius without a kink forming, potentially eliminating the need for some fittings. They all must be shielded from UV, and supported as they will droop along the run. Because it's easy to cut and fasten, it's becoming much more common to use for both heating and potable water systems. The stuff is not new, it's been in use for decades - longer in Europe. The original manufacturer still makes their version (Uphonor, used to be called Wirsbo), but others have come out with their take. Types -B and -C are less expensive to manufacture, and may be fine for your application as well.

Personally, I'd pick a manufacturer that's been around for awhile, but you do have choices. I'd also probably choose type -A.