Pentair Water Treatment Model 7000 (Old model)

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HRH

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Hello Everyone,

My name is Henry and I'm new here :)
I have an Pentair Water Treatment model 7000 (an old model with LED in orange/yellow). The power was out and now I didn't hear running anymore.
Anyone here have the manual for this model please share. I have been looking but couldn't find it yet.
Right now the screen just show the time only and I didn't see it toggle between the time and the remain water till the next regenerate cycle.

Thank you and appreciate for all your help.

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Reach4

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See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/any-idea-what-a-bp-65-is.83601/#post-602486 and get the 7000 SXT manual.

Check the voltage on the the output of the power supply with a multimeter. It should be a nominal 24 VAC as per the label in your second photo. If that voltage is not present, you could get the Fleck 40981 transformer (for 120 vac input), or you could use a different 24vac class 2 power supply with the right current capacity and same connector. By splicing wires, you could change connectors. I expect the 7 watts is the power consumption of the valve control rather than the transformer rating.
 
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SCB

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I just bought a used unit and am setting it up. Can someone explain the setup process in the EXTENDED Programming Mode on page 10? I don't quite follow the Table with the Cycle Step/dF/dFFF/FLtr.
 

Bannerman

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df = down flow - use this with Sodium Chloride (salt) as the regenerant. The brine tank will refill as the final stage of regeneration, preparing brine in advance for the next future regeneration cycle.

dfff = down flow fill first - this is not commonly used unless you plan to use Potassium Chloride instead of Sodium Chloride as a regenerant. The brine tank will refill with water at the beginning of regeneration, which will be followed by a delay to allow the Potassium to dissolve for use during the remaining regeneration stages.

FLtr = Filter - for back washing filter, not a water softener

Edit: the settings shown in the manual are examples only. The appropriate settings for your application will be conditional on the resin tank size, compensated water hardness, the BLFC button that is installed, water use, and the amount of softening capacity to be regenerated each cycle.
 
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SCB

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I had bought an old softener from a friend and just installed it. It has a Pentair 7000 valve. Everything is up and running but the water seems to be "slicker" than before I installed it. Seems like instead of REMOVING the hardening minerals, the unit it ADDING minerals to the water making it harder to rinse soap off. I just turned the unit off and running the main through the bypass. The water is much better.

Any ideas what's going on? The only thing I can think of is that the softening media might need to be changed.

Any help is appreciated.
 

Bannerman

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Soft water is 'slicker' than hard. The softner seems to be working properly.

Hard water minerals will cause soap to adhere, leaving a sticky residue on your skin, just as it does a soap ring on the side of a tub or sink. Now that the sticky residue is not remaining, you are actually feeling your bare skin and the oils contained. Although the soap will actually rinse away easier, less soap, detergent, shampoo fabric softener will be neede. You will soon become accustomed to the 'new' feeling.
 

ditttohead

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Well stated. Here is a fun test to try at home.

Use one drop of liquid soap and wash your hands in soft water. You will notice that your hands get clean and the soap rinses off fairly easily. Now dry your hands a lick the palm of your hand "I know, gross..." you will not taste anything. Now bypass your softener and wash your hands in the normal way you are used to. Wash until you think the soap is gone "squeaky clean?" and dry them. Now lick the palm of your hands... even more gross as it will taste like soap... because the soap did not actually get rinsed off very well. Soap curds create unique globules that stick to your skin, bathtub etc...

A softener takes about 1-2 months to get used to. It is nothing more than a matter of "brain training". Once you are used to it, hard water will feel "sticky".

Most improtantly, reduce your soap usage by no less than half, more likely by 75%. As stated in an earlier thread, unless you are a diesel mechanic, you usually reduce your soap usage in your laundry by 50-75% with ease, even more depending on how dirty you are, or how hard your water is.
 
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