P trap advice- washer

[Ser11111]

Bought a flipped house and inspection reported that there wasn't a trap on the washer. Seller said the shut off valve and drains were just replaced "to code" but I guess that didn't include a trap? Also there's a connector for a sink which is open. Please forgive my 30/f/no plumbing know-how.

1) to install the trap I will need to remove drywall, right? Is this a plumber job or possibly DIY?

2) does that sink drain need to be capped?

 

[Bill Shack]

Part of the p-trap is missing get the seller to replace it or hire a plumber to do this and send the fliper the bill.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ser11111]

I've already closed so seller is long gone. He was a contractor and made a lot of the needed fixes, just not this one. It sounds like this is not something I can do myself? I don't care about aesthetics, could I just install something on the end of that sink drain and would that work, or cap it? There is some smell when the room is closed off.

 

[hj]

There is nothing you can use to cap off that trap. You have to cut the pipe and then cap the end of it. As for the washing machine, from the pictures there is no way ANYONE could tell if there is a trap inside the wall or not.

 

[Terry]

Most of the time with a washer box, they would have installed a standpipe with p-trap.
I am not in the habit of tearing walls out to check those things.

The lav stubout has an incomplete trap. I would set that up for a tubular trap with adapter, or a big maybe you can find the matching part. I wouldn't waste time looking though. It's quicker to work with what you see, cut if back and convert.

 

[Reach4]

It seems to me that if you stuck a dowel/stick down the drain hole, you could feel the bottom of the trap. That bottom would be higher than floor level. If the drain has been used a day or so ago, the bottom inch or two of the dowel should be wet.