Oxidizing iron at the filter tank? Possible?

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1ppm of iron. No bacteria.

I had a venturi air injector/birm setup working for a number of years but my pressure tank got clogged up with iron so I was going to replace it. Dittohead here looked over my water test results and suggested a few setups but also said my water was fairly easy to treat and a softener would probably take care of the iron. I decided to rip out all the iron removal components and replace that pressure tank with a CSV. I've been running this setup for months and it's great. No issues with iron stains at all and the softener is keeping up nicely. But...

When I ripped out the old stuff everything between the air injector and birm tank was severely clogged with iron. It was all installed with 1" PVC and I swear I only had 1/2" flowing because of all the buildup. So I replaced and figure now I'm keeping that iron in its ferrous state and using ion exchange to get rid of it so shouldn't have any clogging issues. Well...

My hose bibs are driving me insane. They were treated for iron but not softened with the old setup. Now it's just straight from the well and damn that iron stains quick. I'm not really looking to soften my hose bibs so I'm kicking around the idea of adding back an iron remover. I was wondering what's suggested to oxidize that iron further down the chain so I don't get all clogged up again. Seems like doing it right at the filter tank would be ideal but contact time may be an issue. In my limited research ozone seems ideal. It needs much less contact time and I don't need to worry about chlorine or peroxide. Any suggestions?
 

Skyjumper

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keep your hose bibs raw. your lawn doesn't need filtered water. if you're getting stains on your house or fence adjust the sprinklers. no iron filter in the world will keep up with the water demand of lawn sprinklers.
 

LLigetfa

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if you're getting stains on your house or fence adjust the sprinklers.
Easier said than done. Iron will stain concrete sidewalks and driveways too. The range of spray changes with pressure and/or supply which is less consistent on most well systems than on municipal water.

I use air injection before the HP tanks and just use larger 1 - 1/4" PVC pipe that can go longer between cleaning. I use double-union ball valves to make the pipe sections easy to remove for cleaning and I make straight-pipe sections to bypass each tank so I can take one tank out of service at a time for cleaning.
 

LLigetfa

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Dittohead here looked over my water test results and suggested a few setups but also said my water was fairly easy to treat and a softener would probably take care of the iron.
Given that your iron level is not so bad, then an iron filter that injects air at the filter should probably suffice and not need long contact time. Those systems typically draw in a reserve of air during backwash and then consume the air when there is low GPM draw. I'm not sure how they would work with a sprinkler system.

The contact time is more for micronizer systems that can only aerate the water for half of the pump cycle. Since sprinkler systems are often tuned to not short-cycle the pump, a traditional micronizer might not add enough air. Hand watering might not draw enough GPM for a traditional micronizer.
 

ditttohead

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If your pH is adequate, a simple Air injection system with ozone should be a good fix. Many available but stay away from the online companies marketing these cheap... too many problems.
 
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keep your hose bibs raw. your lawn doesn't need filtered water. if you're getting stains on your house or fence adjust the sprinklers. no iron filter in the world will keep up with the water demand of lawn sprinklers.
A small breeze one way or the other foils that plan. For such a minimal amount of iron it's amazing how fast it builds up.
 
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If your pH is adequate, a simple Air injection system with ozone should be a good fix. Many available but stay away from the online companies marketing these cheap... too many problems.
PH is 7.6 . You mean inject ozone into the venturi setup like I had before? I can't do that now because of the CSV. If you're talking about something else I'm not familiar.
 

yooperwater

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i have seen people use a chem feed pump like a stenner/chemtec to inject rid-o-rust to treat oustide lines and it works very well. koflo mixer, 35 gallon storage tank and a metering valve with a relay is also needed but meh
 

ditttohead

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upload_2021-9-22_7-11-54.png

AIO with an ozone generator.
 
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View attachment 76983
AIO with an ozone generator.
I found the product on your website. Looks pretty sweet and is what I had in mind in my original post. What's the maintenance level on something like this? Does the air/ozone pocket area foul up a lot? For these values which media would you suggest and what's the general lifespan of the media? Does the ozone generation use a lot of electricity?

Iron = 0.98 ppm
Manganese = 0.071 ppm
Sulfur = 36.8 ppm
PH = 7.6

I tried finding more info on your site but it was limited for this setup.
 

ditttohead

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Ozone uses very little electricity, we use a 1.5 amp 12 volt transformer... tiny. In general a manganese dioxide ore based media is preferred, Filter-Ox or similar is a popular choice. With these low levels your fouling should be minimal, jest tear the valve apart annually to inspect/clean.
 
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Ozone uses very little electricity, we use a 1.5 amp 12 volt transformer... tiny. In general a manganese dioxide ore based media is preferred, Filter-Ox or similar is a popular choice. With these low levels your fouling should be minimal, jest tear the valve apart annually to inspect/clean.

Oh that's no big deal then. I thought they ate up electricity. And you suggest backwashing every day? Some days we will only use 100 gal and some 500 gal or more. If backwashing everyday would it be smart to get a smaller size or do they even have sizes? The more I read about the ozone the more I like it but maybe it's overkill for me?
 
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