Outlet box crimped connection in old home. Safe? Does it meet code? Thanks!

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DIY4plex

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Hello All, My home was built in the 1960’s and when I opened the electrical box for my dryer, I noticed that there was a connection for another line that goes to a nearby 110 volt outlet. But the connection had electrical wire wrapped around a crimped connection. Everything looked pristine. The tape was in perfect condition, and the crimped connection looked professional. However, I was expecting to see wire nut connections. Is this crimped connection wrapped with electrical tape the standard in the 60’s? Should I change the connection to a wire nut?
Thank you!

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Jadnashua

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A dryer typically calls for a dedicated breaker, so tapping off of it may not be correct. Is the dryer gas or electric?

Many of the splices in my place were done using crimped connections. They are, or at least were, an approved method. The ones I'm familiar with are capped. It looks like the end of yours is either cut off, or it never had one. Was that taped over? The electrical load from a gas dryer probably wouldn't call for a dedicated circuit, so extending it would be okay unless the installation instructions call for one.

I'm not an electrician, though.
 

DIY4plex

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A dryer typically calls for a dedicated breaker, so tapping off of it may not be correct. Is the dryer gas or electric?

Many of the splices in my place were done using crimped connections. They are, or at least were, an approved method. The ones I'm familiar with are capped. It looks like the end of yours is either cut off, or it never had one. Was that taped over? The electrical load from a gas dryer probably wouldn't call for a dedicated circuit, so extending it would be okay unless the installation instructions call for one.

I'm not an electrician, though.
Thanks jadnashua for the response. There is a metal conduit that is carrying 2 separate lines from the breaker panel, one for the 240V electric dryer and another 110V for outlets in the garage, and both go the junction box with the 240V outlet. The 110V line is then spliced by crimping and taping and then goes out the box to power several outlets in the garage.

When I removed the tape, the crimped connection is what I saw. I’m thinking of redoing the 110V connection with WAGO lever nuts. Thanks.
 

Reach4

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I would just put on new tape with Scotch 33+ or Scotch 66.

If you don't like tape, look into a suitable heat shrink tubing.
 

DIY4plex

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I would just put on new tape with Scotch 33+ or Scotch 66.

If you don't like tape, look into a suitable heat shrink tubing.
Thank you Reach4. Sounds like you’re not too concerned. I’m wondering if this met code back in the day.
 

WorthFlorida

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It's not clear to me if the garage outlets are on their own breaker. More than likely he garage outlets are probably used occasionally such as for power tool use, therefore, load wise you're OK after 50 years. If anything, the garage outlets should be protected with a GFCI outlet(s). Nothing wrong with crimp connections and the garage outlet may only be two wire if built during the 60's though it was around that time three prong outlets started to become code. Either two or three prong outlets, the first outlet of the string should be wired with a GFCI. Power from the dryer needs be connected to the "line" side of the GFCI and the wires going to the rest be on the "load" side. If it is all metal conduit, at the time the ground terminal (currently the green wire), was wired to a ground screw inside the metal box. It is no longer code but it can still be used. GFCI will work with just two wires if it is old 2 wire romex.
 
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wwhitney

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If it is all metal conduit, at the time the ground terminal (currently the green wire), was wired to a ground screw inside the metal box. It is no longer code but it can still be used.
Continuous properly installed metal conduit is still a code compliant EGC.

Cheers, Wayne
 

DIY4plex

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It's not clear to me if the garage outlets are on their own breaker. More than likely he garage outlets are probably used occasionally such as for power tool use, therefore, load wise you're OK after 50 years. If anything, the garage outlets should be protected with a GFCI outlet(s). Nothing wrong with crimp connections and the garage outlet may only be two wire if built during the 60's though it was around that time three prong outlets started to become code. Either two or three prong outlets, the first outlet of the string should be wired with a GFCI. Power from the dryer needs be connected to the "line" side of the GFCI and the wires going to the rest be one the "load" side. If it is all metal conduit, at the time the ground terminal (currently the green wire), was wired to a ground screw inside the metal box. It is no longer code but it can still be used. GFCI will work with just two wires if it is old 2 wire romex.
Thank you WorthFlorida! Great insight and tips!
 

Jadnashua

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For reference, when a GFCI is used on an ungrounded circuit, you must put one of the (usually) included labels on the receptacle and anything on the load side. It usually says something like "GFCI protected, no equipment ground".
 

DIY4plex

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For reference, when a GFCI is used on an ungrounded circuit, you must put one of the (usually) included labels on the receptacle and anything on the load side. It usually says something like "GFCI protected, no equipment ground".
Ok good to know, thanks!
 

Jeff H Young

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my guess is your electrical from the 60s leaves a lot to be desired . tapped over connections im not crazy about and Im not in that trade . no indication the that too much load is on the breaker but a house from the 60s a real good chance its maxed by todays lifestyle . if it works good and your satisfied with the insulation Id run with it, knowing that I got a 60 year old electrical system and its not a new 21st century build so if you ever gut all your walls out might think about a wire job
 

DIY4plex

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my guess is your electrical from the 60s leaves a lot to be desired . tapped over connections im not crazy about and Im not in that trade . no indication the that too much load is on the breaker but a house from the 60s a real good chance its maxed by todays lifestyle . if it works good and your satisfied with the insulation Id run with it, knowing that I got a 60 year old electrical system and its not a new 21st century build so if you ever gut all your walls out might think about a wire job
Great point Jeff, time flies by and it’s already been 20 years since we bought the home. Thanks!
 
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