Ordered a Toto Eco Drake

[itsr-ent]

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the reviews and info on this site! I need to replace a 15-20 year old Crane toilet (I think 3.5GPF, but it seems to use more than that) in my house. I installed a Kohler Cimarron for my grandparents last year and they really like it, so I went to Lowes again and found the costs went down quite a bit -- HOWEVER, I need "Biscuit" AND round bowl in my bathroom. I also don't like the ADA/chair height.

As I imagined, the Cimarron in biscuit + round (model K-3887-96) is a special order from both Lowes and HomeDepot. $30 less from HomeDepot at $297 with free ship to store. Pretty crazy when the in-stock elongated white one is $178 (and includes a seat).

I went to an independent home center to look at the Toto Drake. Found on here that Sedona Beige is equivalent to Kohler's Biscuit and that looks true at the store. The price was really high ($350+tax) in Sedona Beige, and they didn't stock that color or round bowl in any color. I really like the idea of Kohler's AquaPiston instead of traditional flapper, but still wasn't crazy about the ADA height, so I looked online for the Toto.

I ended up ordering a Toto Eco Drake 1.28gpf standard height round bowl in Sedona Beige (model CST743E#12). I ended up finding it on the website for $189 with free shipping. It said it was on "clearance", but I don't see any other sites indicating the Eco Drake has been discontinued... I just hope it arrives in one piece; I've read some of the horror stories on here! Couldn't pass up that price though!

And now I'm just hoping that my toilet flange is in OK shape. Waste pipe is 3" copper, so I'm hoping it's a nice brass flange! A plumber put the existing toilet in, so I've never seen it. Planning to use a Sani Seal gasket.

I'll probably have a few questions, so I'll report back here on how it arrives and installs. I read through the instructions from Toto and Jamie's step by step guide post at the top of this forum. Thanks again for the great info and explanations posted here!

 

[JMac]

Maybe the site you ordered it from has stopped carrying that color, or maybe even the Eco Drake line? I have read elsewhere that some options have to be ordered from Toto in lots of 30, so maybe your choice is one of those and the site wanted to clearance out some of those?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

At some point, Toto may be dropping the older designs...haven't heard anything regarding this, but it does make sense. Saving water, if the newer design works as well, is important for all involved.

 

[itsr-ent]

At some point, Toto may be dropping the older designs...haven't heard anything regarding this, but it does make sense. Saving water, if the newer design works as well, is important for all involved.

The CST743E is an older design?

I'm hoping this fits. My 12" rough opening is more like 11.25" (to the wall, not baseboard). I see the CST744E elongated has 1 1/8" clearance to the wall while the CST743E round only has 3/4". Current toilet tank is pretty much touching the wall, so hopefully it clears. I probably should have checked the 743 spec sheet and not assumed it was the same as the 744!

 

[Gary Swart]

The toilet should fit OK on the 11.25 rough-in. Toilets rarely, if ever, require the full rough-in space. There is always space behind the tank. Assuming the flange is in good condition, there will be no issue there. The horn on the toilet fits into the flange opening, is sealed by either a wax ring or the Sana Seal gasket, and the toilet is secured by the two flange bolts. Apparently you've read up on the warning of on-line buying, so just remember to inspect the shipment before accept it. Remove the tank and bowl from their boxes and make sure there is no breakage. If there is, you will have to deal with the hassle of getting a replacement or refund, but this can be done.

 

[Jadnashua]

The Drake line goes way back. First ones were 1.6g. THen came the 1.28g, then came the Drake II at 1.28, and then the 1.0g version. How long they'll keep making each of them will depend on sales and local and federal water use rules. I don't follow it well enough to know if or when they drop things from their line...I hear about it afterwards, if at all.

 

[itsr-ent]

Gary, thanks for the info on the 11.25" rough in.

Well, it shipped! It's coming in 2 boxes (tank and bowl) and they shipped it from NJ, so only one day FedEx to NY...supposed to arrive tomorrow! Couldn't have asked for better as far as limited time in "transit".

 

[WJcandee]

It will fit. The CST743 spec sheet is old and overly-conservative. Both it and the CST744 will fit on 11" no problem. I'm crossing my fingers that it arrives intact. When you see the FedEx Ground truck pull up outside, I would walk out to the truck, which might incline the guy not to pitch the "FRAGILE. PORCELAIN." package off the back onto the ground.

 

[itsr-ent]

It arrived! The good news is that they really knows how to pack. The bad news is the local landfill will be full when I drop this packaging off! Came with the Toto boxes inside 2 other boxes with these form fitting foam blocks.

I'll have to wait to install it until I can shut the water off for a while, as I need to replace the shutoff valve behind the toilet with a quarter turn (current one has a bad washer/insides that cause hammering pipes when turning it on/off).

This seems to be a newer model, as I thought I read the Eco Drake came with the Korky 2021BP flapper and some people complained it gets weak being 3" and sags down which breaks the seal. Mine came with a red flapper that has black plastic arms and around the perimeter. Maybe to address the sagging flapper issue?

 

[WJcandee]

Like this?

That's the new Korky 2023BP.

 

[itsr-ent]

Like this?

That's the new Korky 2023BP.

Yes, that's the one. http://www.korky.com/PDF/instructions/2023BP.pdf

Looks like a combination of the Korky adjustable 3" one recommended on here AND the Fluidmaster rigid frame model.

 

[itsr-ent]

Just read the instructions. Do you guys generally set the bowl first before attaching the tank like the manual says? The Cimarrons I've installed are always assembled first, then set on the flange. I'm putting this Toto in a small bathroom so there's not much room to attach the tank with the bowl in place. Also, I think having the tank on first helps to align the toilet and get it "square" to the wall.

 

[Jadnashua]

If you can lift it, put it together where it's easiest. Check with just the bowl to see if you need shims for it to sit flat before.

 

[WJcandee]

Just read the instructions. Do you guys generally set the bowl first before attaching the tank like the manual says? The Cimarrons I've installed are always assembled first, then set on the flange. I'm putting this Toto in a small bathroom so there's not much room to attach the tank with the bowl in place. Also, I think having the tank on first helps to align the toilet and get it "square" to the wall.

I have always put the bowl in first, then attached the tank, but only because it was easier to do it that way. If it's easier for you to do it another way, go for it. One thing you can't do, unless you use the sani-seal or the Korky Waxless seal, is "square" the toilet after you have dropped it on the wax, because you will damage the seal. To correct that a smidge: I guess you can square it a bit before smushing it down fully on the wax, but I think rotating it once down risks lifting it and damaging the seal. If you like the Korky Waxless seal or the sani-seal, you have a lot of options to pick it up and move it around without worrying about the seal. http://www.lowes.com/pd_586597-868-6000PK_0__?productId=50150240&Ntt=korky&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=korky&facetInfo=

Oh, and put the wax or seal on the floor first and put the toilet down on top of it, despite what the Toto instructions say. Don't try to "stick" the wax to the toilet and then position it over the hole. Wax on floor, toilet straight down on wax. Dry fit the bowl first to see where you will need shims. And use a little tube of Polyseamseal to seal around the base, rather than regular caulk. You will thank us for that suggestion when it comes time to pull the thing up.

 

[JerryR]

The one that arrived smashed was also packed just like yours. The packing keeps the TOTO inner boxes from moving but the the Bowl was smashed as it moved around inside the TOTO box.

 

[Wallijonn]

I'll have to wait to install it until I can shut the water off for a while, as I need to replace the shutoff valve behind the toilet with a quarter turn (current one has a bad washer/insides that cause hammering pipes when turning it on/off).

If the old connection uses a compression fitting it may be almost impossible to remove the ferrule on the supply pipe. Carefully use a file to wear it down (obviously WITHOUT damaging the pipe itself) until it almost is flush with the pipe. Some very light filing (or wrap a piece of sand paper around the ferrule) should free it up. There will be a point where it almost looks like it split in two.

Do NOT use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the ferrule. Chances will be high that you will cut into the pipe itself. And as always, clean the pipe outer wall with a brillo pad before installing the new fixture.

 

[JerryR]

Actually, leaving the old ferrule and nut is a common way to handle replacement. If you want to replace the trim plate you will need to pull the ferrule and nut it's best to use a ferrule puller. They can be had for about $20-$30.

For one time use buy one on eBay and when done resell it on eBay or just keep it and lend it to your friends when they need one.

Look at the 46 second video on the review link below. Yes, It's just that easy to do.

 

[itsr-ent]

My valve appears to be threaded onto a 3/8 chrome pipe nipple. I say "appears" because you can usually see a few threads. I cannot see any threads, but I CAN see teflon tape. The design of this particular valve seems to be that the threads are inside farther than normal, so it's covering the normally exposed threads. It's a junk valve...screw-in (not ball valve) with a plastic stem. My sink has 2 of the same ones and something goes bad inside so if you turn it off for any plumbing work and then turn it back on, the air/water flowing through sounds like a machine gun until it builds up pressure.

 

[Gary Swart]

Here's my take on mounting the tank to the bowl. I am not a body builder and for me the weight and balance of the tank and bowl assembled is difficult to manage. So when I install a two piece toilet, I put the bowl in place and secure it then attach the tank. I feel it's easier to keep the bowl going straight down that way rather than having the weight of the tank to contend with. I always use an extra nut on the flange bolts so that they remain upright and in place when lowering the bowl over them. Pro who are in good shape and accustomed to the task will likely say then mount the pieces together and then carry the whole unit into the house and up flight of stairs, and that's OK for them, but we mere mortals look for easier ways.

 

[Wallijonn]

Actually, leaving the old ferrule and nut is a common way to handle replacement.

Good find. Here in AZ hard water usually causes mineral build up and discolouration of the nut, not to mention that many over paint the cover or the valve itself. Then there is the problem of mating dis-similar metals - that leads to corrosion. I don't think that owners who go with brass fittings want chrome nuts, for example.