Old well questions

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Reach4

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That is called split a well seal.

If it actually sealed, and there were no vent, drawing water would produce a vacuum. Best is to put a vent with a screen/slots that exclude insects. You could unscrew that to add bleach, vinegar, and to recirculate water during sanitizing, just as you could unscrew a 1/2 inch plug.

They don't seem to be carried as widely as well seals are, so they might not be so common, or needed.
https://boshart.com/product/pvc-air-vent/ The PVC air vent is Boshart
WS-V05 and their galvanized unit is part

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Boshart-WS-V05-1-2-MPT-Black-PVC-Well-Seal
https://www.ferguson.com/product/simmons-manufacturing-12-in-mip-pvc-well-seal-vent-si750/_/R-66765

The SupplyHouse listing has errors I think , because this item is not a seal, and part WS-V05 is the PVC version. Picture matches. The galvanized Simmons vent is part WS-V05-G, and it costs more.


https://www.ferguson.com/product/campbell-manufacturing-12-in-pvc-plastic-well-seal-cwsv/_/R-1003992 is another vent. They each have 1/2 MIP threads.
 
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Spacoli

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I got it up and running. I have one problem. Something is up with the cut off pressure? I have a brand new 30/50 switch. It turns on at 30 and cuts of at 40 according to the pressure gauge. So I installed the old switch and it does the same thing. Is the gauge off or bad? Any thoughts on this?

165F5A64-8A72-47C3-B24F-308329B4BFA0.jpeg
 

Bannerman

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If the pressure gauge continues to read 40 psi after the pump shuts off, the the system should not be leaking.

Allow the pump to operate until it shuts off, then using a tire pressure gauge, measure the pressure at the air valve on the top of the pressure tank to compare to the water pressure gauge.. The air pressure should be virtually identical to the actual water pressure.
 

Reach4

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I got it up and running. I have one problem. Something is up with the cut off pressure? I have a brand new 30/50 switch. It turns on at 30 and cuts of at 40 according to the pressure gauge. So I installed the old switch and it does the same thing. Is the gauge off or bad? Any thoughts on this?

I would encourage you to extend the casing, put in a pitless adapter and an appropriate submersible pump.

There are pitless adapters for two pipes, but it sure looks like you have a 4-inch casing to me. If converting to submersible, use one of the pipes as a conduit for the wires.

The problem with a buried well seal is that they don't seal. Dirty water is going to seep in.

But addressing your question, yes check out the pressure tank. But a pressure switch should have a short high-volume path to the input of the pressure tank. If those are widely separated or separated through skinny pipe, the pressure switch will see a higher pressure when the pump runs than the pressure tank sees.

What are the red and white pipes? Is that your remoting a vent or to remotely inject sanitizing solutions?
 

Spacoli

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I would encourage you to extend the casing, put in a pitless adapter and an appropriate submersible pump.

There are pitless adapters for two pipes, but it sure looks like you have a 4-inch casing to me. If converting to submersible, use one of the pipes as a conduit for the wires.

The problem with a buried well seal is that they don't seal. Dirty water is going to seep in.

But addressing your question, yes check out the pressure tank. But a pressure switch should have a short high-volume path to the input of the pressure tank. If those are widely separated or separated through skinny pipe, the pressure switch will see a higher pressure when the pump runs than the pressure tank sees.

What are the red and white pipes? Is that your remoting a vent or to remotely inject sanitizing solutions?

Yes, they are pex vent pipes. I didn’t have enough white to run in the crawlspace. So I had to use what had at I had at the time.

So I manually held the pressure switch contacts over to see if it would build more pressure and it wouldn’t. So I’m guessing the ejector Venturi isn’t working right or the pump (3/4 hp) isn’t strong enough.

I think I forgot to mention that I dropped the ejector to 60’. That’s halfway between the bottom of the well (80’) and the holding water level while the pump was running full on.

Extending the case and a submersible pump will be my final solution. I just wanted to get this up and running with what I had. What size submersible pump would I need for 60’?

FYI it’s a 5 5/8” casing and I’m not going to bury it again.

Thanks
 

Spacoli

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If the pressure gauge continues to read 40 psi after the pump shuts off, the the system should not be leaking.

Allow the pump to operate until it shuts off, then using a tire pressure gauge, measure the pressure at the air valve on the top of the pressure tank to compare to the water pressure gauge.. The air pressure should be virtually identical to the actual water pressure.

All pressure read the same. Something is not strong enough is get to 50#???
 

Reach4

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Extending the case and a submersible pump will be my final solution. I just wanted to get this up and running with what I had. What size submersible pump would I need for 60’?
1/2 HP 10 gpm. If your water were deeper, you could use 1/2 HP, 7 GPM. The 7 gpm pump is more lifting power and expense than you need.

This 1/2 HP 10 gpm would be similar for other brands too.
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Valveman

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With a two pipe deep well jet pump you need a pressure sustain or regulator on the discharge of the pump. Without some restriction on the discharge the ejector at the bottom doesn't have enough flow to make the 50 PSI you need.
 
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