Old pipe, new fitting

[bcpjap]

I have an old copper pipe in a wall cavity that I can leave exposed when the repair is complete. It has developed a very slow leak at the elbow within the wall cavity (see attached pic) and needs to be replaced. I have already cleaned the pipe up a bit and removed some of the exterior corrosion using a scotch brite pad and as you may be able to tell, the pipe is definitely not in "new" condition. My question is this: which fitting would be more forgiving of surface imperfections, a new brazed fitting or a push-on (aka shark bite) type fitting? Thanks for your suggestions

 

[Fitter30]

Shark bite needs a surface without imperfections. Pick up a roll of sand cloth, inspection mirror , two 90's and a slip coupling and tubing. New 90's might not be the same demention and sometimes the old fitting just don't want to come off.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

y question is this: which fitting would be more forgiving of surface imperfections, a new brazed fitting or a push-on (aka shark bite) type fitting?

I expect you mean soldered or "sweat".

Can you get some clearance for a heat shield behind? Solder is very forgiving of pits and scrapes if you clean the pipe first, and use a good tinning flux, such as Oatey #95 and good silver-containing solder.

Beware of fire.

 

[bcpjap]

You are correct, I should have said soldered. I do have clearance for a heat shield and will be sure to use one.. Thanks for the tip on a specific flux and solder.

 

[Fitter30]

Bridget solder & flux. After cutting the horizontal pipe the riser can be away from the 2x4. Spray bottle of water soak 2x4 use a old tin can or sheet metal for heat shield. Solder 90 on a piece of tubing then theres just the riser to make a joint.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Where is the pipe in the hole in the wall.. I always recommend making a much larger hole in your wall than you think you'll need. It will be much easier to work on, much safer and its just as easy to patch a large drywall patch as a small one. Reduce your risk, work smart, stay safe.

 

[bcpjap]

I made the hole plenty big and got a 14x14 access panel to cover. It's in the garage tucked in a corner where I'm not overly concerned about aesthetics. I used some scrap sheet metal to fashion a heat shield behind the work. Thanks for all the good advice.

I tried soldering as my first fix, but 2 of my 6 joints leaked. The two failed joints were the bottom half of vertical joints of new fitting/old pipe. I'm thinking that was due to my lack of experience as well as not cleaning the old pipes as well as I could have. Both leaks were on the back side of the pipe. Those were also the last joints I soldered and I'm wondering if perhaps most of the flux had run out of the joints before I soldered them up?

After that fail I went the push-on/sharkbite route. This time I spent a good deal of time prepping the old pipes and getting them as clean as I could. So far it is holding and no leaks.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Thats a tough spot to try to learn to solder. Most joints I see fail because they're heated up too hot. Knowing how to control the heat with flame placement is key. But either way, sounds like you got it solved and didn't burn down the house.